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Not Back biting

I'd love to get tips and techniques from fellow OLF'ers on how you go about getting the perfect join of the two binding pieces on the back at the neck end. I usually use and mitre side purflings with the end-graft and so start here with the two pieces butt-joined and mitred in. Then I mark the centre point on the back at the neck end where the binding will meet. I dry fit one piece of the binding/back purfling using brown tape to get a tight fit all around and then mark the binding/purfling to meet the mark on the back, take off the binding/purfling, cut the neck end joint and true this up to be square. I then tape the binding/purfling back on tight.

Then the fun part (for me). On goes the second binding/purfling piece with brown tape, joined at the end-graft beautifully and I proceed round. The bit that frustrates is the painstaking trial and error to ensure that I get the perfect butt join with the first piece at the neck end. Slightly too long and the binding/purfling will show a gap somewhere against the back, slightly too short and there's a binding gap. Do you have a method for trialing and trimming/making flush the binding end with the binding mostly taped on instead of having to take the piece off completely and then retry as I currently do? It works in the end but is very fiddly and uses up lots of brown tape

Hope this makes sense.

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Dave White
De Faoite Stringed Instruments
". . . the one thing a machine just can't do is give you character and personalities and sometimes that comes with flaws, but it always comes with humanity" Monty Don talking about hand weaving, "Mastercrafts", Weaving, BBC March 2010

Dave I think that I do the same thing that you do but I am not sure if I understood what you wrote.

I prebend the bindings and then tape one in place.  I mark the exact middle at the butt end, remove the binding, cut on the mark in a small miter box.  Then I glue this binding in place exactly in the center of the butt end, work it around and at the neck I cut it in the air with an X-acto saw and tape it into place.

As you indicated the second one is the tricky one.  I tape it in place again, mark the butt end, remove it and cut off the excess at the butt end.  Then starting from the butt end I glue it in place.  When I get to the neck end it is again a mark it, and cut it in the air with an X-acto saw and then I use blocks to sand it to fit with no gaps.  Its awkward but it seems to work.

I always prefer the top of the guitar since the neck end is not an issue.....

Dave, I feel your pain. Over the years, I've come to a method that has been pretty much fool proof (of course, me being the fool). I lay one piece of binding on the guitar, cut the tail end and then cut the neck end. I go ahead and get that piece all taped up. Then I fit the tail end of the second piece while holding it tight in the waist. Then I start taping that side up. I stop at about the fat part of the upper bout and lay it on top of the first binding piece. With it sitting on top, I mark it "just proud" of the first piece and cut it. I can't tell you how much is "just proud" but I've come to find the perfect amount. I cut it shy of the line with end nippers and sand just to the line. Then tape it all up. As you said, if it's too long it will show a gap and then it can be sanded a bit. Though I've found with my method, I rarely have to do any further fitting.
I know that was of little help but that's my method. Best,Paul

[QUOTE=Hesh] When I get to the neck end it is again a mark it, and cut it in the air with an X-acto saw and then I use blocks to sand it to fit with no gaps.  Its awkward but it seems to work.I always prefer the top of the guitar since the neck end is not an issue.....
[/QUOTE]

Hesh,

That's the bit I'm looking for in terms of tips techniques, jigs or "magic bullets" Maybe it's just the usual old fashioned "skill and practice" again.

_________________
Dave White
De Faoite Stringed Instruments
". . . the one thing a machine just can't do is give you character and personalities and sometimes that comes with flaws, but it always comes with humanity" Monty Don talking about hand weaving, "Mastercrafts", Weaving, BBC March 2010

Dave, I'm binding today so I'll try to snap of pic of my "just proud" measurement so you can get an idea of what I'm talking about.

Paul and Todd thanks.

Paul - pictures are always great

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Dave White
De Faoite Stringed Instruments
". . . the one thing a machine just can't do is give you character and personalities and sometimes that comes with flaws, but it always comes with humanity" Monty Don talking about hand weaving, "Mastercrafts", Weaving, BBC March 2010

[QUOTE=Dave White]
Paul - pictures are always great [/QUOTE]

I am illiterate when it comes to processes like these , therefore a picture tutorial would be greatly appreciated

with all of the binding fitted, glued and temporarily held in place with masking tape around the back (I will later use cloth tape to wrap) I will fit and mark the last six or seven inches around the bass side upper bout. I can then slip that into a small X-acto miter box and cut at 90 degrees with a razor saw. If you are using plastic you can allow a smidge extra and use a bead of glue to melt and fuse it to the other piece. Wood is harder and unforgiving .....it just takes practice as to where to cut and you really only have one shot at it..........