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HI Guys

I am currently building the jig you very kindly shared in a previous post for routing the mortice, I just have one question, am I right in assuming the Black wheel in the photograph locks everything at the desired angle ?

Many Thanks

Russell

It is what sets the angle. The threaded rod runs through the jig, and depending on where you set the wheel will deterimine the angle.

Does that make sense?

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Thanks Brock make perfect sense I really appreciatte the help.


Russell

Russell, are you building the one that uses the metal bar to adjust for bridge height? (Sorry I can't remember which version you saw) You'll need to have some sort of depth adjustment at the placement of the bridge that will change the angle based on fingerboard height, fret height and side purfling height (if you are using it).
The CFox method that Charles helped me with only set the angle of the FB extension which was fine for a good fitting neck, but did nothing to adjust for the angle to the bridge. That left the neck with a lot of heal sanding to do. This one works like a charm with only touch-up sanding. Let me know if you need more info.

[QUOTE=RussellR]I am currently building the jig you very kindly shared in a previous post for routing the mortice Russell[/QUOTE]
Got a link to that?

Hi Paul

Yes it is the version with the metal bar, I really like this solution as the system you have designed get the mortice very close for each individual guitar.

The other question I had is I build both conventinal scale and short scale instruments, in both 12 and 14 fret configurations, so my thinking was I would need 4 positions for the bridge setting.

I really appreciatte you sharing this idea, and think it will save me a lot of time.

Side Cheeks Discusion


HI Eric

Hope I've doner this correct, her is the link

My solution to Paul's problem was this.

I know that when I hold a straight edge on my fitted neck I want 3/32" clearance at the bridge location. That will make everything work out perfect.

Therefore I set it up to cut the angle where the metal rod clears the soundboard by 3/32" at the bridge -- just like a straight edge would.

That has worked fine for me.

_________________
Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Russell, My scale lengths are the same but I have a 12 fret in my line. So, after I forgot to do this and measured it at the 14 fret position, I drilled a second hole at the 12 fret position. Yes, I'm an idiot! I marked the two with big black sharpie so HOPEFULLY I'll remember to change the adjustment piece when I change guitars. So far I've made this mistake, and put a bridgeplate in the 14 fret position for the 12 fret guitars. I can't really think of any more supid mistakes to make on this model but give me time, I'll probably invent some.
Any more questions, please ask. I can shoot some more photos if you need them. Good luck. P

Good solution Brock. That's essencially what I'm doing, I'm just taking the measuring step out of each one with the adjustable bolt. One less place to screw up. (Unless of course you change something and forget to change the bolt...Don't ask)

Thanks Paul, Well it is going quite well I have it together, but it needs some modifiactaions, (not your design) but my choice of material etc. I am used a piece of a building strap as my straight edge but Iy is not stable enough. I have a couple of questions if you don't mind?

How thick is your perspex template, I made mine from 4mm(5/16?) but it is not stble enough.

What kind of cutter do you use in your router?, a spiral downcutter?

Do you use a standard mortice length on all your guitars?

The design is excellant and I have got the alignment and clamping sorted out, so a few more tweeks and I think it will be a fantastic tool.

Thank you both for all of your help


As for making daft mistakes, I am a king at it I managed to stick a neck block in upside down the other day.

Do you have a photo of where the template sits in ?

Question #1: I use 1/2" lexan. I try to stick to only lexan when a router will be anywhere near it. I doesn't shatter like plexi has the tendency to do.
Question#2: I'm still trying to find the perfect bit. Here's the way I do it. I put a template guide bushing on the router and use a 1/2" spiral bit (can't remember which way it cuts) When I'm pretty close to the depth I want, I take out the template guide and change to a 1/2" pattern cutting bit (with the bearing at the collet end) and finish it up. The reason for the two different setups is that the lexan is only 1/2 inch thick and in order to get the bit down enought for it to ride on the template, I'd be making a VERY deep cut. The template guide allows me to nibble away at it better.
Question #3: I use a 5/8" mortise. Not sure what is "standard".
The cavity the template sits in is just a dado cut slot. Lots of passes with a 3/4 inch dado blade and it sits in there perfectly well.

Paul once again a very big thank you.

Russell

This is so cool...it really needs to be in the jig section. Any chance of that happening? Thanks, Paul and Brock.

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

HI Guys thought I would just let you know I finished setting up the jig today and did some test joints with it.

It works like a dream, It has taken me a couple of days to make (Including the Mortice Template) and get setup correctly, but this will be a serious timesaver, and is very accurate.

Thanks for sharing this, and helping with my queries.