Official Luthiers Forum!

[QUOTE=Hesh] What would be even cooler is some kind of optional mod
to the neck alignment jig that aligns bridges with a straight leading edge
so that one corner is not higher then the other.  Almost like a T-square
attachment.  Hint, hint.......
[/QUOTE]
Hesh, I couldn't tell if you were joking or serious. But if you were serious,
then I must tell you that the little plastic piece you have taped on the jig
near the bridge area is exactly what you are asking for. If you go
HERE and
scroll to the bottom of the page you will see how to use the little bridge
squaring attachment that should have come with your CL Finder. It does
exactly what you were asking for. If you were joking, then
Tracy

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Tracy
http://www.luthiersuppliers.com

Hesh,

You've done it again. Another terrific tutorial! Although I currently make my guitars using the old-time Spanish method, I have been thinking about trying one with this type of neck. Now I will have something to go by when I do.

Thanks, Hesh.

Have a great holiday season,
Max

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Max Bishop
Brighton, Michigan

Hesh.....Great tutorial  as usual.....I wish to heck I could keep my shop as tidy as yours.....I was trying to get a good angle on your alinement jig....Is it home made or did you buy it?...Is it possible to get a good pic posted of this so I can try and make one.....Again excellent tutorial....Larry

Thanks folks!

Larry my freind I bought my neck alignment jig from Tracy at Luthier Suppliers and there is a link at the top of this page to Tracy's site.  You will be able to find a picture of it there I am sure.  I'll add that this jig works like a dream for me and is not very expensive either.  Highly recommended!

Tracy - duuuugh......  So that is what the plastic thing that is still taped to my jig is for?  Seriously I didn't know that......  So I get the moron of the day award.......  Thanks Tracy you just made my jig even more valuable!!!

Terence I am not sure but if my memory is correct I think that the built in neck angle is around 1.5 degrees.

In my experience any and all commercially available necks need some working to get the angle correct.  In my case much if not all of the fitting that was required in the tutorial example is as a result of misalignments that I caused or other factors.  The neck block may not have been perfectly square where I glued it, etc.  But even in this example the neck angle right out of the box (pardon the pun) was still pretty close.  And of course what radius I use to dome my tops, body size, top thickness, scale length and other factors all can change things.

So I am always needing to do some adjusting with any neck that I have used.  I have used Stew-Mac, LMI, and Martin necks too.  The Watkins necks are by far the finest though with a beautiful, fast shape, and a consistency of quality that is the best that I have had the privilege to use.

Colin that is an excellent tip and thank you my friend for sharing it!!!

Mitch Watkins necks will be available from John Watkins again shortly, he just moved and is unpacking.  When he is ready his web site will be back up too.  I am sure there will be an announcement when John is good to go.

Hesh, that definately needs to be archived--I wish I had seen that years ago.

Great Job as always Hesh!!!
You have a real knack for teaching,,,thanks for all your effort..
Cheers
Charlie

What would be real cool!!!! is to have a slot for the saddle in that piece at the proper angle to set the standard intonaton between E and e so that you can insert the saddle in to the slot of the bridge and that piece and index of the saddle position instead of indexing the front side of the bridge a my front side of the bridge is a radius not a straight plane. As soon as I get the time i plan to make just that adaption.

What would be real cool!!!! is to have a slot for the saddle in that piece at the proper angle to set the standard intonation between E and e so that you can insert the saddle in to the slot of the bridge and a slot in that little piece there by indexing off the saddle position instead of indexing the front side of the bridge as my front side of the bridge is a radius not a straight plane. As soon as I get the time I plan to make just that adaption.

[QUOTE=MichaelP] What would be real cool!!!! is to have a slot for the saddle in that piece at the proper angle to set the standard intonaton between E and e so that you can insert the saddle in to the slot of the bridge and that piece and index of the saddle position instead of indexing the front side of the bridge a my front side of the bridge is a radius not a straight plane. As soon as I get the time i plan to make just that adaption.[/QUOTE]

Brilliant!

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Slick as do do Hesh.I really like the dremel idea.I`m gonna give that a try.
                          James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

[QUOTE=MichaelP] What would be real cool!!!! is to have a slot for the
saddle in that piece at the proper angle to set the standard intonaton
between E and e so that you can insert the saddle in to the slot of the
bridge and that piece and index of the saddle position instead of indexing
the front side of the bridge a my front side of the bridge is a radius not a
straight plane. As soon as I get the time i plan to make just that
adaption.[/QUOTE]

Michael,
I know of a few instrument builders already doing this. But they actually
just super glue a dummy saddle onto the bridge squaring attachment set
in the correct angle, and mark the exact location on the jig by just
scribing a line on it once they have found the right scale and location.
Once you have this done once, you can consistently replicate the exact
position by putting the bridge attachment with the dummy saddle into
the saddle slot of the bridge. If you want some extra bridge attachments
to accommodate different saddle angles, I can send you some. Hope that
works out for you!
Tracy

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Tracy
http://www.luthiersuppliers.com

Brilliant Tracy and great idea Michael

So would you just determine you saddle location with say the gig butted up against the nut face, close the side clamps, etc?

I actuallly have a jig made up  that uses this method of bridge placement. It is measured to exactly fit a 25.34 martin scale (measured and fitted using my Martin D35 as a template). I just butt one end up against the nut, place the glued on saddle in the bridge slot and wallah! It is perfect every time.

The one thing I have found is that if you buy your bridges pre-made and slotted, not all bridges are slotted )compensated) equally. When this occurs, your bridge will not be square to the guitar's center line.

Just another thing to watch for....

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Reguards,

Ken H