Official Luthiers Forum!

I am about to order a chisel for shaping braces. My thought was to go with
a 1/2" width, but I have the option of 4.5" or 7" length. I am inexperienced
and about to build my first guitar starting in January, so what length do you
think would be best?

Thanks,
Mark

Hey Mark. Is that blade length? Probably. I really like long paring chisels
for shaping braces. Ground to a shallow (20 degree) angle. More control.
Either will work. Hope that helps. Others will chime in.

I would go with the longer.

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Guitars, guitars and more guitars.

I have always used long paring chisels untill recently ordering a set of Blue Spruce dovetail chisels. Usually I would not have ordered dovetail length but since they were the only length option at the time I decided to give them a go. I was really supprised by the quality and feel of these chisels, the shorter length give excellent control for fine detail. I guess its more about the quality and balance of the chisel than the length itself.

Sweedish Berg chisels are a great buy second hand of ebay. Half way between a traditional dovetail set and paring chisels and excellent quality.

I would strongly reccomend buying just one or two best quality chisels than many of lesser quality. You will save money long term. Plus, If you chose Berg, Lie Nielsen or Blue Spruce you would not have any trouble selling them if you didnt like the size or style.

 

Thanks for the responses.
Tommy, sorry for not being clear. The 4.5" or 7" is the length from the front
of the ferrule.
Todd, thanks for the link to the video. I will have to check that out.
Tony, how long are your blue spruce chisels? That is the one I am looking
at.
Thanks again, everyone.

there is also for lack of better word the curved brace chisel from stew mac. works great, and after few years or whatever is great for glue

Tony's advice about a few good chisels (instead of a 'set') is 'right on the money'.
I like longer blades for most chisel work.
A #3 straight gouge can be useful for shaping braces- carving tools usually have 'rounded bevels' -if that makes any sense- and can make scalloping a bit easier.

Lots of practice on scrap (and sharpening) will pay off- get in the habit of working 'bevel-down' when needed. You really don't need this:



if you know how to handle a regular chisel.

Cheers
John

Hi Mark,

The Blue Spruce chisel lengths are 3-5/8, 3-7/8, 4-1/8, and 4-3/8 inches respectively, for the 1/8" to 1/2" for the standard dovetail set.

As I said before, after many years of using paring chisels, I now only use these Blue Spruce chisels. They are thin bladed and expertly crafted.

If you are making your first guitar I would probably get just one or two, maybe a 1/8" and 1/2" or 3/16" and 5/8". The larger for most general work and the smaller for fitting the nut or inlays etc.

These are the best chisels I know of, but there are many other good options to cut spruce and hardwoods! The reason I reccomend top of the line tools to both newbies and experienced woodworkers is; I just feel the better tool one owns, the easier and more enjoyable it becomes to do the work asked of the tool...

 

 

I like longer paring chisels as well and my favorite to date is the LMI chisel.  I also want to pick up a Blue Spruce chisel based on Tony's excellent recommendation.

I will add another vote for the longer chisel for carving braces. There are very few times when I could use a short chisel and most occasions call for a long one.

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Reguards,

Ken H

I prefer my Sorby paring chisels to any others I've used. They take a really good edge, and I like the control of a longer blade. They're pricey if you were to buy a whole set of them, but I only have a 1/4" and a 1" and they handle everything I've needed them for. If I were going whole hog I'd probably round that out with a 1/2" and something just under 1/4"

Having had no real training in woodworking, I've always used chisels both bevel up and bevel down for different purposes. I find bevel down especially handy if you're worried about the chisel 'digging in' to your work.

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

I prefer the control the longer blades provide; anchor with the left hand, operate the cut with the right (on the handle). More fine control due to the fact the same amount of swing translates to a smaller change angle.