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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:03 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:25 am
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Location: Russellville, Arkansas
I could go archive diving and find some of these I'm sure. I've got to set up an accurate way of thicknessing this part of the neck. I have a Wagner power planer on my drill press. I've been less than successful with it, maybe it's technique?

I've used my benchtop sander to some degree, but need to jig it so it's much more accurate than hand sanding it. Any ideas? TIA, Bruce

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:09 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2006 5:55 am
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Location: United States
First name: James
Last Name: Bolan
City: Nashville
State: Tennessee
Country: USA
I do mine on a disc sander,like Robbie O`brien teaches in his video.
               james

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:18 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:32 pm
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I do mine like John Mayes. Get his neck making DVD.
Sorry, I looked for pictures and I don't have anything. John's DVD is well worth the money.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:34 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2007 5:01 am
Posts: 140
Location: United Kingdom
I thickness it from the top just after joint the scarf jiont.

Sometimes i will cut it close to thickness on the bandsaw and then clean it
with a block plane.

If i need a little more taken off later i use the wagner.
You need a realy stable drill press for the wagner to work.

Joel.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:45 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:51 am
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Location: Canada
Cut close to size on the bandsaw, then clean up to final thickness in my shopbuilt thickness sander .. creates a lovely volute at the same time.

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www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:47 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 10:43 pm
Posts: 1124
Location: Australia
First name: Paul
Last Name: Burns
City: Forster
State: NSW
Zip/Postal Code: 2428
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I use my thickness sander, only takes a few minutes.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:53 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 12:40 am
Posts: 1900
Location: Spokane, Washington
First name: Pat
Last Name: Foster
State: Eastern WA
Focus: Build
I've used a Robo-Sander in the drill press. Needs a sturdy fence, though. sort of like a vertical thickness sander.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:02 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2006 10:55 pm
Posts: 698
Location: Australia
We use a belt sander.

The pic below is a bridge but the headstock works the same way and makes a great volute as Tony says.



Bob

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Bob Connor
Geelong, Australia


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:05 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2007 10:37 am
Posts: 590
Location: United States
First name: Michael
Last Name: Shaw
City: Phila
State: PA
Zip/Postal Code: 19125
Country: United States
How do you do this on a thickness sander. We are talking about a drum sander right. Do you shut off the feed table and feed it by hand? Is your headstock attached to the neck at this point or do you do this before joining the scarf joint?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:17 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:46 am
Posts: 1012
Location: Issaquah, Washington USA
I cut to rough with bandsaw then use the Wagner Slayer planer.  Wished there were a better way.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:36 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2005 10:33 pm
Posts: 954
Location: United States
I have a jig that I mount my neck in and cut to thickness on a bandsaw, with the proper blade( I use my resaw blade) it's nearly perfect right then and there.

Greg

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:44 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 11:44 am
Posts: 2186
Location: Newark, DE
First name: Jim
Last Name: Kirby
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I'm with Rich. Once I get the face of the headstock and the gluing surface for the fingerboard right w/r each other, I thickness the headstock (and the neck shaft for that matter) with the Wagner fingernail nibbler.

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kirby@udel.edu


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:00 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 4:53 am
Posts: 1584
Location: PA, United States

This could be fun (just fer roughin' in...)




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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:25 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:25 am
Posts: 3788
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
I found a pic in the archives showing a small delta sander tabletop type with a plywood adjusable wing.

Problem with mine is it's quite worn and the bed will raise about a 1/2 inch when wiggled up and down. I may be able to tighten the allen head screw at the motorized end which holds it all?

Time to bring in my big floor model. My shop just keeps getting smaller. Rod.... help!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:09 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 12:44 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Canada
hey bob,
your system looks like it makes a lot of sense - and even leaves room to tuck the end of a shop vac in somewhere. could you show us another picture or two of how you make adjustments?
phil


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:21 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2006 10:55 pm
Posts: 698
Location: Australia
Just a couple of wing-nuts Phil


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Geelong, Australia


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:23 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 10:11 am
Posts: 2761
Location: Tampa Bay
First name: Dave
Last Name: Anderson
City: Clearwater
State: Florida
Zip/Postal Code: 33755
Country: United States
Bruce, I made this simple jig that works well for
headstocks and other things like brace ends and bridge wings.It makes a nice volute too.






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Anderson Guitars
Clearwater,Fl. 33755


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:39 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Thu Nov 16, 2006 9:21 am
Posts: 97
Location: Australia

I use a scarfe joint.
I thin it with a jack plane.
I taper the neck in the same way.
Select the grain direction before glueing the headstock on.
Mark it out carefully and double check your progress at regular intervals.
Plane away from the centre of the joint
Clean it up on a large sanding block.
Gets nice results
Takes about 15 minutes with care.

Claire



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:17 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 3:48 pm
Posts: 151
Location: United States
Home-built thickness sander here as well. 


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:50 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 3:05 pm
Posts: 503
Location: Portland, Oregon
I use a 3" drum to shape up to the volute (tuner side),I use a 2" drum on the shaft side of the volute, then I thickness sand the remainder of the underside of the headstock using the open end of my 16/32. I will stop just a fraction shy of bringing it totally level, and smooth it with a sanding block. Very slight hand sanding, but if you try to use the drum to take it dead flat the end of the drum will rub the volutes radius. Works pretty nice for me.

Rich


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:02 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2005 5:49 pm
Posts: 2915
Location: Norway
Drum sander here, just like Tony Karol described.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 12:24 am 
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Location: Canada
My shop built uses a sled ... so no feed system to turn off !!! Just slip the headstock in upside down to snad the back side and you are there ... pretty simple really. Its just like the stationary belt sander setup shown above, but in a 6 inch drum sander with a bigger table

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 2:44 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 7:17 am
Posts: 1383
Location: Canada
I use the method Bob Benedetto shows in his book. Get the upper surface flat, then glue a 1/8" shim to the tip of the upper surface of the paddle (this establishes a subtle taper to the headstock). On a drill press, passes under a rotary file will reduce thickness as required (Benedetto suggests safe-t-planer.....hate those things!) Remember to measure thicknesses of front & back face veneers first, so you can plane to correct thickness for your tuners to work (You're probably sensing I know this from experience!)

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Milton, ON


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 3:33 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2006 5:35 pm
Posts: 1021
Location: United States
I use a router to profile my necks. I got the idea from Ryan's website and it
does give you a lot of accuracy and precision. Ideally, it would be nice to
have a shaper for the task but I can route away the excess in just two
passes. Obviously, you need to remove most of the extra material
beforehand.




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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:40 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 6:25 pm
Posts: 2749
Location: Netherlands
Handplane for initial thicknessing (from the front, after scarfing), then either a router jig and rasp or (now that I have it) a drum sander/end of the belt sander, creating a nice, even surface for the backstrapping.


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