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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:15 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
Posts: 3389
Location: Alexandria MN
Greetings,
I usually radius my fretboards with a router jig and then taper. I use Sylvan's toble saw jig which works great. Using a sharp Forrest Woodworker II I still get a little minor chip out around 14-20.
Is the Freud Diablo stiff enough to give a good straight taper on ebony?
Seems like it should be less prone to chipout. I've used it for thin stuff like binding etc. but it seems a little flexible making straight cuts on thicker material.
Thanks in advance.
Terry

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:26 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
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Location: United States
I have had issues with every blade I have tried with Gabon Ebony. I switched to ruff cutting the taper on my table saw an 1/8" over sized to the side. Then using a edge fixture and pattern bit on my router table.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:27 pm 
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Terry, I love my Freud Diablo blade and use it exactly for that proceedure. It leaves an edge that is nearly glue ready (if adding bindings to the fretboard). No chipout here, just a nice straigt smooth cut [:Y:]

If I have to thank Mario for another fine tip I may just barf (just kidding :mrgreen: ) but honestly he's got great ideas and these :twisted: blades are excellent value, Thanks again Grumpio :D . I don't have the 40 tooth blades as I haven't been able to find them locally here for under $30 (still worth it, I'm just really cheap) so I just use the 24 tooth blade and it does a great job. I suspect the 40 tooth may give an even smoother edge.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:55 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:56 am
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Chip out above or below the blade?

Could be your blade is too high. Lowering the blade till it clears the material by maybe 1/16" may help. If the jig your using is a sled, make sure the edge of the sled is practically touching the blade like a zero clearance throat plate would. That will help tearout below.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 5:01 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:58 am
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I use blade stiffeners with the Diablo for tapering. Really makes the edges clean....


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 5:24 pm 
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Cocobolo
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A Forrest Woodworker II is a really good, stiff blade. Pricey, but worth every dime. Cuts ebony perfectly all day!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 5:45 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 3:18 pm
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Location: United States
I lost too many fretboards to chipout on the tablesaw before I found the answer.

Rough cut on bandsaw, clean up with a handplane. Total time = about 3 minutes per fretboard, and a perfect edge every time. I haven't lost a fretboard since.

The best solutions are often the simplest solutions.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 5:56 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I'm surprised you get chip out with the Forrest blade. Do you have the blade set just high enough that the gullets are clear of the work?
Have you ever checked your saw for runout?

I use the Diablo with stiffeners, always.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 9:24 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

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Location: Central PA
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Like Sylvan I use forrest blades. I have also started using steel city blades. A good blade isn't a cost it is an investment.
john hall
blues creek guitars

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 9:26 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 5:21 am
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Location: Central PA
First name: john
Last Name: hall
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Like Sylvan I use forrest blades. I have also started using steel city blades. A good blade isn't a cost it is an investment. Be sure you have the blade cut depth set correct and that your fence is set up correctly. I am amazed at how many users of saws have no idea how a saw should be set up.
If the fence isn't set up correctly you are wasting your time using the saw.
john hall
blues creek guitars

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 11:52 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Agree the Forrest II is a fantastic blade. Makes a huge difference and is worth the initial outlay.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 12:44 am 
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Koa
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Location: Denver, Colorado
I haven't found the Forest blades to be worth the extra cost. I even had several of the carbide tips come loose on one. This was after a sharpening, I should add, but by a very reputable and capable sharpener. Perhaps just bad luck, but I think there are other blades that cut just about as smooth for a lot less.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 6:42 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
Posts: 3389
Location: Alexandria MN
Thanks for the info guys, I may have had my Forrest WWII set a little high. I'll also do some trials with the Diablo and get some stiffners.
Terry

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 2:09 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
Posts: 3389
Location: Alexandria MN
I forgot I had a WWII blade that came back from their sharpening service. I put it in and set the cut so it was only about 1/16 proud and it worked great. No chipout. Thanks a million everyone.
Here are some pics of my setup to use Sylvan's technique. My fence is short on my small saw so I made some carriers for the fretboards with the appropriate sized notches and use a feather board.
Thanks Again
Terry

Image

Image

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