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Hi Guys
When I trim my sides I always use the off cuts for binding other guitars. Before, I've just used them as they are but this time I want to add some BWB purfling. I hand bend my wood on a bending iron. I was wondering, if I glue the purfling with Titebond, will it come unstuck during the bending process?? Is there a better glue to use (epoxy?). I'd hate to go to all the trouble gluing the purfling on to find that it comes off under heat.
Thanks
Mat

Titebond 3 is what you need.

Bob

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Bob Connor
Geelong, Australia

Thanks guys - great tips
Out of interest, I bought a binding laminator from Stewmac. I tried to bond cream plastic with Tortoiseshell using acetone. I did everything correctly using the right materials but the binding just DID NOT stick?? Any reason for this? Is the Tortoiseshell a different material??
- Mat

I've used regular Titebond to glue the sideline purfling to binding stock for years, with no particular problems in bending that I could attribute the the glue.

I do it the hard way. I take all 3 (top and side purflings, and binding) and glue them all onto the guitar at the same time. One day I'm going to make a setup like Todd's. I pre-bend everything on the bender first and then I glue them onto the guitar. If I'm using wood I will use Titebond. For ivoroid I use Duco. I think if you laminate first and then bend, Titebond would come unglued on the bender, as it will release with heat. I also think that Todd's jig is a must for laminating.

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Brad Tucker

I agree with Alan, Regular old Titebond has worked fine over the years for this. Although I'm bending on a hot iron instead of a machine.
Also it is far easier than dealing with individual strips to laminate sheets of veneer to 1/4" X 3" X 30" stock of your choice and strip out the binding with side purflings already incorporated.

Alan, how did you clamp it all up?

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Aoibeann

Thanks again guys

The LMI FCA glue looks quite good.

I've been thinking about using Cocobolo, the FCA has answered one of my questions but I have started to finish my guitars with French Polish. Would this work on Cocobolo?? I have no facilities/skills for any finishing other than Tru oil and FP so have so far avoided Cocobolo.

Mat

Here are some bindings I made recently.
Curly maple with .6mm Brazilian rosewood with .3mm white between edged with .6mm maple.

I use/recommend Titebond III for laminating purflings to bindings. I've had 'em separate when bending with Titebond and LMI white. Maybe that's just me.

Good luck,
Max

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Max Bishop
Brighton, Michigan

I have had good results with titebond.

A couple things worth mentioning. Adding water when bending is not a good idea. It will compramise the glue, leads to bleeding of colors(especially with fiber lams), and is really not needed. A tight bend, such as a cutoway. Can cause the binding to stretch and bunch(outer and inner lams). Overheating binding will cause any glue to break down, but bindings don't need to hold the shape quite as tight as sides (I actually like a bit of spring back, because overbent is much more of a pain when attaching).

Rich

No problems bending 'em once glued with Titebond, but I'll bend at a lower temperature than a set of sides.

I.....MUST....make me one of Todd's jigs for laying up the bindings...love it!

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