Official Luthiers Forum!

...Anybody ever used this stuff? I have a lot of it in my shop from a project I did for a customer last summer. One coat would seem to provide the very same look and protection that some of the other things you can buy from Stewmac, LMII, etc....

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

I have used it a few times on furniture I have built. I liked it generally, but found that some batches cured very slowly (like a week or two instead of a day). As much as I liked the idea of this stuff (it has no toxic ingredients like driers, etc.) it didn't perform all that well for me.

I use Tru-Oil on necks, but am quite happy to not finish fretboards or bridges. I go up through the grits and then polish with Micro Mesh. Maybe a little 'Lizard Spit' at the end.

One thing to keep in mind with Tru-Oil is that it has a shelf life and a very much shorter one after having been opened. I started using this stuff on gun stocks along time ago and came to the conclusion that the best method of obtaining it was directly through Birchwood-Casey in small bottles as I needed it. Not the least expensive way, but its kept me from having drying issues. I will get it from Cabela's in Dundee, MI ocasionally but the rate of turnover on the shelves there seems to be great enough so that you get fresher product. I'll generally toss the bottle if it hasn't been used in 6 to 8 weeks of having the seal broken and if I've had it for longer than six months, regardless of the seal.

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Jim Howell
Charlotte, NC

Jim,
The Tried and True Varnish oil is a different product than Tru-Oil. I thought the same thing when I first saw the post. On the other hand, the Tru-Oil Jim refers to is a commonly used product for guitars. I have played guitars with Tru-Oil necks and liked the feel a lot. Easy application is a real bonus for Tru-Oil.

Tried and True Varnish Oil can be researched a bit more at: http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/varnish.htm

Oh, I also agree with Jim that fretboards and bridges don't need finish.

I absolutely HATE having to deal with shelf life issues. Been dealing with that my whole wood working life.

Any other opinions?

What about butcher block oil...or mineral oil as some call it. I realize the fingerboard and bridge do not necessarily need a finish on them...but...seems like a good idea...

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

Sniggly--

Steve is very correct! I mis-read your initial post. I'm clueless as to whether or not the product you mentioned has a shelf life. I'm a very low volume builder . I just get a small quantitiy of whatever I need whether it be glue or finish and then restock during the next build.

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Jim Howell
Charlotte, NC

Once you open any of these polymerizing oil varnishes, you should squirt some "Bloxygen" into the can or bottle to prevent oxygen from getting to it.

Good idea, Rick. Those who use these type of products have also been known to drop marbles into partially full containers to eliminate as much head space as possible. It is an old trick.