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Hi, I'm laying out my fingerboard taper. I'm using a 12th fret fingerboard width equal to the saddle string spacing and a 1 3/4" nut width. So basically my fretboard taper is set. But I'm debating on what string spacing to use at the nut for a 1 3/4" nut width. I'm thinking either 1.5625" or 1.500", giving either 3/32 or 1/8 from the E strings to the edge. This is for a 25.4 scale Martin style dred, with light or medium strings. Just looking for any personal preferences to help me make my decision.

As always, T.I.A.

Kirt

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Horton, MI

Kirt...I start with 1/8 from the edge of E and e to the edge and mark the centers on the nut.

I then use the SM string spacing ruler and it sets the other 4 perfectly. It is one of my indespensible tools from SM!

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Plot on paper at full scale. At the nut from the outer edge of both E stings to the outer edge of the nut I use 1/8". Now this locates the outer edge of both E strings from the outer edge of the nut. you need to find the center of the E stings. Subtract on each side half the string width to get to the center of the two E stings at the nut. Now draw a line from each E stings center pin holes on the bridge to the E strings centers at the nut. Make an offset copy of these two lines you just drew at the edge of the nut. There you have the fretboard taper.

Thanks JJ, I was thinking 1/8 was pretty standard. But I heard 3/32 somewhere too. I don't have the Stewmac scale. But I planned on setting equal spacing between the strings at the nut as opposed to equal string centers. Sound right?

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Horton, MI

you really want equal spacing between edges of strings for the best feel. the Stewmac spacing gauge does a fairly close job of this. to calculate this by hand is not super simple since each string has a different gauge

Whoops, sorry Michael, didn't see your post. So you go from the edge of the strings, not the center. Do you shoot for an even space from the string to the edge of the board for the full length. I was planning on a slightly increasing space as I go up the board. I'm laying this out in Cad so I guess I'll lay the strings in there with widths and see how it all comes out.

Thanks.

Edit: I guess we're playing posting tag here.

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Horton, MI

Laying this out on cad makes laying out for equal spacing much simpler. Yes I do edge to edge spacing. But be aware that after the D sting that you not likely to be able to mark or file to the accuracy to be near exact, so for G, b and e center to center is close enough.

There are several nut string spacing calculators on the web. Just Google "guitar string spacing calculator", or something
similar. For best appearance, you want equal spacing between the edges of the strings, which means the spacing varies
as string diameter changes.
Here are a couple of urls


http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/nut_slot.php

http://www.guitarrasjaen.com/English%20 ... ulator.htm

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Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

Thanks Gene I'll check those out.

Thanks again Michael, I think I got it figured out.

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Horton, MI

Several years ago I went and measured the nut spacings on a couple dozen electrics and acoustics in my local music store. Interestingly, basses seemed to be firmly "equal centers" while NONE of the guitars were either "equal centers" or "equal gaps".

Fender electrics came closest to "equal centers" but the others were approaching something like "equal centers" for the wound strings grading to "equal gaps" for the plain strings....not exactly, but more or less.

I was measuring with digital calipers, and wondering if that was just from the vagaries of production factory nut cutting, or if there was a playability factor there that I was missing.

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The member formerly known as erikbojerik....

On # 1-4 I went with 1/8" in from the edge on the E-e and equal spacing.

On # 5 I went with 3/32" in from the edge on the E-e and used my SM string spacing ruler to graduate the centers of the strings.

Honestly, I really can't tell the difference at all. It has to do with the shape of the neck more than such a minute change in string spacing.

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

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Graduating the string spacing has to do with the look of the string spacing at the nut. Because the lower strings have a larger diameter they will look closer together if you use an equal string spacing from center to center. By graduating the spacing (this is done to the 0.000" measurement) you can make the strings look like they are equally spaced although they are not. If all of the strings were the same diameter we'd make them equally spaced but since they graduate from large to small diameter we can graduate the spacing between the strings to make it look more pleasing to the eye. Maybe the best players can notice the minute difference between the graduated string spacings, but I would think there are only a small number of players who would even notice.

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My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

Why do people need scales or string spacing calculators to layout string spaces? The math is simple. Layout your E strings first and then measures the space between them. Then add up all the diameters of the remaining strings (A+D+G+B) and subtract that from the space between the E strings. Divide this number by 5 and this will give you the equidistant space between the strings.
Dial or Digital calipers are very useful for this as you can lock the caliper in at the right setting and use it to hold the strings in position while you mark the nut.

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Rich S

"The inconvenience of poor quality will linger long after the thrill of a bargain has been forgotten"

How about 1/8" spacing string edge to FB edge at the nut for a bass guitar, what's your opinion?

I disagree. The difference between graduated and equal string spacing at the nut is not small in this context. At this end of the strings, even the smallest differences are noticeable and affect the 'feel' of the instrument quite a bit. Of course the better and more discerning the player the more important these things are, but I don't think it matters only for a few of the very best, this is something even most intermediate level players will notice. On mandolins the most minute change in spacing in the string pairs is especially noticeable and is an important parameter in the set up of the instrument.

BTW, I eyeball the string spacing thourougly after I have done the measuring and marking and as I start cutting. If things look just a little bit off I gently nudge the strings in position, I think it is easier than getting good measurements and cutting after those.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

I have never been a bass player but due to the larger, much larger string gauge i would with out laying it out assume 1/8" fb to string edge is a bit close. But like I said I have never played bass or built one.

The measurement of the string to the fretboard edge is not as critical as the distance from the string to your bevel on the frets.
Many players want more bevel on one side(thumb over for example)for a smoother feel.
Please consider how you want to use your instument then calculate
I once had a customer request a new nut on a brand new Taylor .The nut was fine for anyone but him .He wanted everthing squeezed to the bass side so he would not pull the high E over the fretbard edge when bending.
In the end the customer was happy with a setup taylored to his needs.

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How long is that in luthyears?