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I finally finishing radiusing the tail block on the bouzouki which I'm building, but it was a difficult task to get it right. Do you have a preferred method for getting the correct radius on the tail block

With respect to the post below, I made the block by laminating 3 layers of spruce, with the middle layer aligned 90 degrees to the outer layers.

Thanks,

Eric

I generally draw a pencil line down either outer edge, then use a table top bench sander to sand a curve on the block. The pencil line is equal to the gap at the centerline formed when placing it in the mold. 1/8 inch gap, 1/8 inch line on the two outer edges. Sand an arc, check it, then touchup, usually done in three or four minutes. Good luck.

Eric,
I take a slice of 60 grit sand paper and tape it to the inside of the sides right at the butt joint. The sides are clamped firmly into the mold. Then by rubbing the end block on the sand paper it slowly takes the shape of the bodys curve. Does this make sense? I can dig up a picture late today if not...

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Eric, though my setup is a bit more of a production type thing, it would work well for a one-off builder as well. I made a sled with a radius on the front lip (all of my tail blocks are a 25" radius). I've got a table that attches onto the existing table of my edge sander. This table has a piece of L chanel on it that protrudes to make a lip. In operation, the sled butts against the lip of the table and I just roll it back and forth to get the radius in the block. I hold the block in with vacuum but there are many other ways of doing this as well. Let me know if you are confused by this and I'll get some pics snapped. Paul

I cut mine on the table saw. Set the blade angle tilt to 1.5* and saw the angle for dreads. Use 3-3.5* for OM's and more rounded bodies. I then touch it up on the belt sander if needed. The dreads are right on out of the saw.

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

What Paul said. Only my neck/end block jigs work on a 20" diameter disc sander. It's set up to take all sorts of jigs to radius braces, shape headstocks, do the end blocks, etc. If you want a pic or two, email me offline and I'll send some.

The dreads are right on out of the saw.

Tim, you're gluing flat, but angle cut blocks to radiused sides?

Still trying to put the square block in the round hole, eh? <g>

[QUOTE=LanceK] Eric,
I take a slice of 60 grit sand paper and tape it to the inside of the sides right at the butt joint. The sides are clamped firmly into the mold. Then by rubbing the end block on the sand paper it slowly takes the shape of the bodys curve. Does this make sense? I can dig up a picture late today if not...[/QUOTE]

This is the method I used after roughly shaping the block. It worked, but took a lot of time and elbow grease.

Thanks all,

Eric

Paul, I'd love to see a pic of your jig....

Thanks,,,

p.s......nice fishy! Is that a trout?

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Only badly."

[QUOTE=Mario] The dreads are right on out of the saw.

Tim, you're gluing flat, but angle cut blocks to radiused sides?

Still trying to put the square block in the round hole, eh? <g>[/QUOTE]

Mario: I know it may sound weird but it works. I cut the angle only to the center of the block and then flip it over and cut the other angle. The gluing surface ends up in a very flat "V" shape. If I hold em up to a Martin print, it's a perfect fit. Works for me on dreads. Although it takes a 3*-3.5* cut on others with a bit of shaping on the belt sander for more curved models.

PS, I forgot to tell you that I have a reeeeely big hammer if all else fails. That's how I get the pegs in <g>

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com