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Hi Lillian, the cabinet is 220 mm deep (50 mm of which is part of the doors), 760 mm high and 106 mm wide (inside). The frame material is 20 mm pine and the front and back is 10 mm plywood, so add that and you get the outside dimensions.

As I said, the cabinet started life as a book case, and I was going to throw it out but I noticed the nice hand cut dovetails and the solid pine and decided to reuse. I was a little concerned that it would not be deep enough, most cabinet of this type I have seen are deep enough so smoothers can be places straight in. I like to store them slanted anyways, besides a deeper cabinet would have stolen too much space above the work bench so I decided it would be OK.

Here’s how I made it: I tore out the old shelves, glued the plywood front and back to the frame, then sliced off a 50 mm section that would become doors. I then cut this part in half again, fit in a piece of wood to in each door half to complete the door frame and fashioned a “French cleat” to attach it to the wall. I then moved the tools I wanted in there around in there until I found a layout that I liked, made a quick sketch of this and made the different slanted shelves and hangers. Two nights work, total.




That’s hilarious! Actually I feel for you guys who have to struggle with converters and whatnot for this, and that silly 110 V system and huge amperages you have to deal with. It is OK for most domestic used I guess, but for anything else you’re be much better off with 220-240V (like most of the world). Then, if you could also change to 50 Hz and lose that ridiculous imperial measurement system…

better stop...

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Yeah, what a waste. My son had to have a converter installed when he put in his 16" panel saw a few years ago. It's strange to hear the electric powering up before the saw starts. Then you have a cacophony of sound.

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Waddy

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Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Thanks Arnt. That is just what I needed to know. Now, will the weekend ever get here??

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Aoibeann