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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 1:43 pm 
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Koa
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coming out of the drum sander, what is the last grit you use on a spruce top? im ordering some sandpaper rolls and was wondering if i should buy something finer than 120. also, this particular top will have an abalone rosette. thanks.

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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 1:51 pm 
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Cocobolo
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I bring mine down with 120

fine sanding comes later for me


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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 2:03 pm 
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Koa
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80


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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 2:20 pm 
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Cocobolo
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80, it's quicker to take it down with a hand block once the box is closed than to change the roll on the drum sander.

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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 2:29 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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80 or 120, what ever is on the machine at the time. Anything finer than 120 will still need to be sanded by hand or with a good ROS or you could still have lines from the drum sander paper.


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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 3:15 pm 
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Koa
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excellent. thanks for the responses.

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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 4:27 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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I use 150 to thickness spruce on the drum sander and then hand sand with a block for final finish to 220.

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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 4:29 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I only have 80 for my drum sander. The ROS takes care of the scratches.


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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 4:46 pm 
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Koa
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Since Rick isn't here to say it, anything after 80 on the thickness sander and you're just wanking.... Just bring it to thickness, then build it. Scrape the inside surface for gluing, then when the box is done, it's off to the orbital sander for the rest.


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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 7:10 pm 
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Koa
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grumpy wrote:
Since Rick isn't here to say it, anything after 80 on the thickness sander and you're just wanking.... Just bring it to thickness, then build it. Scrape the inside surface for gluing, then when the box is done, it's off to the orbital sander for the rest.


you dont think that 120 or something close will save you some time later? especially if you are close to a thickness that you like, it seems like going from 80 to 220 could eat some material. this is my first guitar, so i honestly dont know. i went ahead and ordered some 120, then came back and read your post, grump.

so after the box is closed, go back with random orbit to 220. got it. i was told i should go to 400 on the abalone rosette. anyone else go to a similar grit? or just 220?

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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 11:15 pm 
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Koa
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you dont think that 120 or something close will save you some time later?

Sure as hell won't make up for the time it took to change the paper on the thickness sander. Besides, it'll clog before you know.


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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 11:44 pm 
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I agree with Mario, anything finer than 80 is a waste on a drum sander. The purpose of the drum sander is not to produce a fine finish, it is to thickness the wood passing under its drums.

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 12:07 am 
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Koa
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that totally makes sense. i wasnt even thinking about the time it takes to change the paper. thanks guys.

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 12:35 am 
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Koa
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80 for the Spruce is good. If you have Shell inlayed in your rosette a finer grit might make it a bit easier to smooth out the scratches.

Rich


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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 7:51 am 
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Koa
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Wood, plastic, or shell, scrape the rosette.

thank me later...


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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 8:03 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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For example, with sandpaper you risk making a dip in the spruce around the rosette, since it is softer.

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 8:05 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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grumpy wrote:
Since Rick isn't here to say it, anything after 80 on the thickness sander and you're just wanking.... Just bring it to thickness, then build it. Scrape the inside surface for gluing, then when the box is done, it's off to the orbital sander for the rest.


I don't disagree but I use the finer grit because it gives me a little finer control at the end when I thickness to target deflection. If I had a better thickness sander I might not need to do that.

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