Official Luthiers Forum!

Would like to get input from those here that do resawing....stuff that's 8" or wider....not fingerboards...and not Bob Cefalu etc. Here is my current setup.

Grizzly G0555 bandsaw with riser block
Timberwolf 3tpi 3/8" blade (I realize these are tensioned differently and this one is done according to the directions)
When this blade runs free (not cutting) it runs perfect...no deflection whatsoever....and no noise....very clean.
Problems persist on Santos Mahogany 8/4 (really hard)
Saw doesn't start bogging until the blade gets really out of true....doesn't matter if I am taking 200 thou or 1 inch.

Symptoms: As I begin the cut, the blade will track true about 8 inches into the wood....then it will start to dance right then left...right...left...right....left....and start cupping the cut till it makes it nearly impossible to finish...in fact it will ruin the desired piece I am going after. Stock is squared before I start. Table is square to the blade on both axis. Roller bearings are clean and spin freely. Bearings are set to about 4 thou on either side. Dust collection hooked up always.

I realize my blade width could be wider and will order a 3/4 wide after this post is vetted out. Would like to get a 2 tpi but I don't think timberwolf sells one.

My suspicion is two fold. I think my blade could stand to be wider and I think this Santos Mahogany is just a pain in the ^&*((. I even tried different fence setups.

So what do you think?

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

What you describe sounds like your blade is not clearing the sawdust and is getting heated by friction. A 3 RAKE tooth per inch 1/2 inch blade has worked we for me. Timberwolf makes a 2 - 3 tooth resaw blade that I have seen demonstrated at Woodcraft. The alternate tooth design does not set up a resonance and works very well. Is anyone around who can check the set up of you saw? It took me buying a book on bandsaws and really working on it to get it right when I first started.

Steve

In my experience the Timberwolf blades are a waste of money. I'm sure they're sharp and would probably perform well for a well-experienced user but for me they have never worked properly. Probably my fault but I don't have the time (or money) to waste on them anymore. I now buy the standard resaw blades at my local tool center. I think the one I'm currently using is 3/4" wide and 6tpi. 3 sounds a little coarse and 3/8" a little too small for my liking. Mine is mounted on a Jet floor model that will handle up to 12" cutting height. It cuts mahoganies like butter. One blade will last quite a while. Rosewoods will dull one after only 5-10 sets sometimes depending on specie.

Have you tried this: resaw a scrap piece approximately 1" thick x say 6-8" wide (true and square on two edges)freehand. Draw a line down the center of the 1" side and try to freehand to the line as slow and close to it as possible. About 6-8" in stop and check the angle of the stock. It will most likely not be square to table. Mark the angle in pencil on the table top and adjust your resaw fence to that angle. Mine runs a few degrees out of "true" but with it adjusted it cuts like butta!

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"We might not be big but we sure are slow"

I have had similar problems with the Jet saw I have, and finally bought a variety of different manufacturers blades until I found one that would work well on my saw. I usually use a 5/8" or 3/4" 3tpi or 4tpi blade with a good rake and that seems to do well. Believe it or not, the Olsen blades work best on my saw. Each saw will react differently to blades, so sometimes it takes a bit of testing to see which one yours likes the best.

By the way, when are you going to make the 30 minute trip and come see my shop snig?

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Reguards,

Ken H

Ken I thought about you today. Wondered if you had gotten that lumber loaded into your barn yet...????? I think I may have some time this coming weekend if you haven't gotten it done yet. Nothing scheduled so far (on my end).

I did some research on the symptom I am experiencing and I think there might not be enough tension on my blade. Keep in mind I have gone from a 93 1/2 to a 105.....it drove me crazy today though so I am in for the night.

I was also thinking of trying one of those olsen blades from Woodcraft. I have never used any other blade so we'll see.

Let me know.

Chris

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

I got all of the hardwood loaded in the barn. Some of it is drop dead gorgeous. I still need to get the cedar in the barn and the cherry too, but it will have to be cut into shorter lengths before I can do that. I guess I'll have to take the chain saw to it and cut it all into 10' lengths as the 20' lengths were just too long for the space I had in the barn.

Youre welcome here anytime, just call ahead of time and make sure I'm here first. It is only 30 mins or so to the house from your house. Just dont expect a sparkling clean shop like my buddy Hesh has.
If you help me with the lumber, you might can twist my arm enough to let you take some of this lumber home with you too.

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Reguards,

Ken H

Our shop.....as....clean as .....Hesh's?....

Now THAT is funny!!!!! Hesh I don't know you bud....but I have seen the sparkle in your space...mine will never measure...

Ken if I can manage to keep this weekend clear I'd be glad to come over and help you with it. I even have some monster chainsaws to make the job quick. I can bring the Dixie Chopper out and we can tie up bundles and drag them to the barn for stacking...it'll be easy...I'll keep you posted. And by the way you wouldn't have to give me any of that wood...just glad for the fact that you are close enough to come see.

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

Trying to resaw 8" rosewood with a 3/8" blade is not practical. Unless you go extremely slow the wood will drive the blade, not the other way around. Also I would expect a blade like a timberwolf will be pretty dull by the time you get a couple back and side sets cut if it's a really hard wood, which will only make things worse. A 3/8" timberwolf will last pretty much forever cutting 3" mahogany and thinner hardwoods; my advice is to use that blade for that type of task.

If you must cut with this blade, go very very very very very slow and don't be surprised when the cut isn't as straight as you want it.

I went through all sorts of trials with my 14", and have experience trouble just as you are having. Mine is a 14", 1HP, with a riser block. I have upgraded the spring, have installed Carter bearing guides and such. I have used many different blades. I have cut extreamly hard woods 8"+(ebony, cocobolo, Zircote and such). It sounds like you know how to set your machine up spot on (one thing that can be tricky with small blades is making sure your fence is parallel to your blade, if it is off it will mess with you- I only mention it as a thought just so you can confirm it is true). I had suspected all sorts of issues, from guides being off, tension being too low, poor tires and so forth Thus leading to the long list of upgrades. I got to the point where I could get it to run very well, then I slowed way down on oily rosewoods and such. If there was a problem I chalked it up to a bad blade.

I finally got tired and picked up an 18" saw. It performs like a champ, but I learned a few things, mostely because I have absolute confidense in its ability to hold a tight tune. One time I was going to run a bunch of wood, and set the fence and went for it. After running maybe 30-40 cuts through I shut it down for a break. I happened to notice I had not pulled the tension lever. This clued me into something about tensioning the blade. Even if you have a blade tensioned way below its rated spec. it will cut fine. I am not saying not to tension a blade properly, but it pulled it way down my list of "suspect" issues. I was curious about guides and how important they were. So I ran a test. I pulled my guides way back, leaving only the rear guide in place, but set way back(I did this only to make sure I didn't push a blade off a wheel). I ran the cuts, and had no issues. Again I am not saying to forget your guides, but they are not needed if your blade is cutting correctly. I ran several hundred cuts one day, and finally got to some Cocobolo billets. The first cut went pretty ok, the second went wacky. I cleaned the blade which had gummed up notably. Then grabbed a Koa billet, and it cut smooth as silk (about 20 cuts). I grabbed the Cocobolo and bam first cut went so so, second poorly. The blade had gummed up again(although after cleaning the blade was sharp and good to go). This got me thinking about clogging, clearing, TPI, feed rate, and how much these things can directly and significantly effect your blades cut. I switched over to a blade with 1.2 TPI, slowed the feed rate a bit(just enough to know it was clearing well) and all the sudden I am back in the game. The blades I was using, first was a 1" 2/3 TPI trimaster, then switched to a 1" 1.2 TPI woodmaster.

The long(and that was a long explanation ) and short of it is that I have learned to focus on the blades ability to cut and clear well. Granted my 14" is still temperamental about holding its settings, but as long as I have kept the blade cutting well I have had little trouble(I still use it off and on for cuts). It still gives me fits with very oily wood, because I need a blade that clears better, but as long as I watch the feed and keep the blade clean it cuts ebony and harder woods just fine. Try looking close at how much dust is being trapped in the cut after you run the piece. If you see much dust wedged in there it is not clearing well enough, if you see any build up brush the blade with a wire brush and clean the sides of the blade with a razor. If you see scortched dust or carbon building on the blade, again it is probably not clearing and causing friction. Carbon blades will dull much faster than carbide tipped, but usually they last twice as long as most people probably figure (a lot of sharp blades are just dirty). Blade wander from side to side seems to usually indicate clogging to me. A wide sweeping cut usually means the blade is not aligned with the fence. A blade that is bowing usually indicates clogging or overly agressive feed, which would be compounded by a blade that was not tensioned well. A blade that walks to one side strongly can also be build up on one side of the blade or bearing guide, turning the blade.

Hope that helps,
Rich