Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi all

I am building a Walnut/Alaskan Yellow Cedar OM size guitar. First Build. It will have Imboya headstock, rosette, trim. Macassar Ebony Fretboard and Bridge. Here are some pictures I took last night. Imput would be very appreciated.

Thanks
Neil
[img]http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/neogardguitar/?action=view&current=headstock.jpg[img]

Och, cannae see any images, Jim...

I finally figured out the picture posting thing. Here goes....

Would appreciate input. Especially on the top bracing.

Thanks
Neil


[img]http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/neogardguitar/neck2.jpg[img]
[/img]http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/neogardguitar/neck.jpg[/img]

2 more shots of the neck...

Ok then, since you ask... what's up with the extra peak near the bridge plate on one of the lower x-brace legs? Personally I would remove it, then move the ‘usual’ peaks on the braces in a bit (from the rim) and generally trim the tone bars down a bit (especially towards the rim) to make the plate more flexible around the perimeter . I believe it will give you more bass and a ‘richer’ sound. From the way they look I wouldn't shave the 'valleys' behind the x any more... Large bridge plate compared to how I like them. Those are general observations, not knowing anything about the characteristics of your specific pieces of wood or what your tonal goals are.

A fine looking top, nothing out of the ordinary with the bracing (except that extra peak), and it will most likely make a nice sounding guitar. Carry on!

One thing though, are you forgetting an access hole for the truss rod wrench in the upper face brace...?

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Good start on your 1st guitar.I like the wood and the neck looks very nice.
I would agree with Arnt on the bracing .Just a little more carving and you'll
get it. Have fun putting her together !

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Anderson Guitars
Clearwater,Fl. 33755

Hi Neil: I see some really great work here and think that you are doing fine and will have a great sounding and looking guitar.

I agree with my friend Arnt regarding the double humper X-leg but that is easily hacked off.

In addition, although I think that your bridge shape is cool as hell I am wondering if it will intersect the X-brace on the fat side of the bridge? The bridge is actually one of the most important braces on a guitar and it needs to be long enough to overlay the X-legs, both of them.

Beyond this I like what I see AND I also see some real innovation and artistry for a first guitar. You are going to be very good at this it's clear to see.

Hey thanks you guys for your help. You are amazing. Will make changes you suggested.

Also Hesh, I have attached a picture of the guitar layout showing the bridge and where it goes across the x-braces. Does that look ok to you?

Thanks
Neil

I'm pretty amazed to hear that is your first build.

Very nice work.

Dave

What Arnt said. How tall are the x-braces? If they are more than 9/16" then you are probably OK but on future builds you might want to make the scallop after the intersection more gradual. I would probably move the lower finger brace closer to the other one or shave it down a lot or eliminate it on future builds. Here's a pic of what I'd do.

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Ken Franklin
clumsy yet persistent
https://www.kenfranklinukulele.com

Yep Neil you have it covered - sorry for the false alarm.

Very nice work!

Welcome to the OLF.

How about a real name in your sig? Might make more folks want to respond to your posts.

Looks good. Along with the other good advice given, if it were me, I'd have less of a bridge plate and more of an upper transverse brace. The UTB needs to counteract shear forces that want to push the neck block towards the bridge as well as keep the fretboard extension from diving towards the back.

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now known around here as Pat Foster
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com