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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2008 3:33 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:59 am
Posts: 78
Location: Wigan England
Guitar no2 is now pretty well ready for finishing ( I'll try to get a couple of pics up). The back and sides are from Imbuya, which doesn't look as porous as the rosewood on no1. Does anyone have any experience of this wood, it was purchased because I liked the look of it when Walnut wasn't available from the wood supplier.
Thanks,
Charles.


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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2008 3:43 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
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Location: United States
Some sets may some may not. It is a pretty fine wood but is prone to worm holes so if you notioce no vissible open pores then you are likely fine if you notice lightly open pores the it would not hurt.


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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2008 7:47 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 9:42 pm
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Location: Buffalo, NY
First name: Robert
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Usually Imbuia doesn't require pore filling. However a coat of Z-Poxy works wonders in bringing out the figure and color in Imbuia. Nice wood.

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 10:21 am 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 7:46 am
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Location: Branson, MO
First name: stan
Last Name: thomison
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Zip/Postal Code: 65616
Country: united states
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no on fill. yes on the 5 i have made (bob's sets, love his sets he has had) used ca and dust for holes some. found it also finishes very nice. can almost get grest shine in just the final sanding. since started using z-poxy, my next one will have a thin wipe on coat. i am going to get sides a build a dulcimer with it. have told the niegbors not an illegal smoking substance.


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 3:26 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:59 am
Posts: 78
Location: Wigan England
These are a few photos. I chickened out of mitreing the purfling. On guitar no1 I used plain plastic binding with herringbone on the front, but wasn't too happy with the result. On this one I decided to use maple, and am pleased with it, but didn't think my skill level was good enough to mitre, maybe on no3!
I had to brush finish no1, but have now got a small compressor and airbrush. I'm not sure it will cover a big enough area, but will test it on scrap wood first. It will have to be waterbased.
I used colortone grain filler last time. Is zpoxy any different to use?
Please excuse my ignorance, I'm entirely on my own and have just read books and this forum.


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 3:42 pm 
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Location: United States
First name: Waddy
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City: Charlotte
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Sure looks great to me.

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 4:03 pm 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 7:46 am
Posts: 1315
Location: Branson, MO
First name: stan
Last Name: thomison
City: branson
State: mo
Zip/Postal Code: 65616
Country: united states
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
When I used the waterbased fillers, I used if remember right (it has been more than a few hours) I spread it on with plastic and then used a scotch brite pad to even it out and after dry sanded. Using Z-poxy just spread it out thin and after dry sanded. I then put a thinned mix on. It seemed to make the finish (1tru-oil and 1 fp shellac) pop out a little better.

I am sort of a rookie with it and have only used it on the last 2 guitars this past few weeks. On imbuya I would only do the thinned layer and not worry about the pore fill. It will go over the CA if have to use it for holes. I don't do anything on the top, but have thought of a really thinned out poxy on the top say 25% poxy and 75%alcohol, particularly for a fp and clawed top.


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