Official Luthiers Forum!

I'm in the process of making the Williams Binding Jig. I'm finished with all the wood stuff and now I need to tackle the 3/16" aluminum parts.

I was wondering what methods are recommended. I have a Delta 14" bandsaw, jigsaw, hacksaw and even routers at my disposal and wanted to know what I could use to make five, 3" cuts. My initial thinking was to use the hacksaw but thought I would ask first to see if there might be a faster method with what I have...and not booger up the equipment for wood applications later.

TIA

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

JJ a metal cutting blade on your bandsaw should do the trick. If you have a jig saw with a metal blade that would work as well.

JJ,

I use very often my bandsaw to be cutting. aluminium. Make sure you're wearing eye shield.

Eugenio

Thanks, gentlemen for the speedy reply. A few further questions:

1) What TPI are considered metal cutting bandsaw blades?
2) Do I need to use cutting oil? If so, will that affect wood cutting later?

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Thermonuclear weapons?

I cut aluminum on the either band saw or table saw. Bi-metal blades may last longer, but plain old flexback wood blades are fine, and no need for lubrication. If you were cutting aluminum all day I would be using a metal blade and lubricated horizontal saw, but for a few cuts now and then just about anything will do. Most aluminum is so soft that it won't dull you're blade unless you let it get hot.

Clogging the blade is a more common problem, so push it slow to keep the chips small and let them clear. 3/16" is no problem. I just cut up a bunch of 1_1/2" aluminum on my bandsaw, just kept my 6tpi flexback blade that was on it, and it still cut just fine when I was done.

_________________
Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

Thanks David...exactly the details I was looking for.

Hesh... Just when I think you've done your best work, you do something like this...outstanding! Billy must be very proud of you indeed! BTW...Slim Pickens was one of my favorite actors

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

I'm going to have to firmly disagree with that statement...cutting any metal with a fine blade will certainly dull it...or any blade for that matter, even ones specifically made for cutting metal...even cutting MDF with a blade will dull it...I should know as I've been dealing with MDF for years and very very rarely use my wood blades for such work...and have been known to fly completely off the handle when some language edited tries to cut that material when I have my saw set up for woodworking...MDF ≠ wood...

all blades get dull, that is a normal consequence of use...maybe some of you all don't make nearly as many cuts in a year as I do in a day, but I will guarantee you that cutting aluminum will dull a wood blade...and there is nothing worse than having to try to make a really accurate cut on a dulled blade...

my saw blades are rated as follows:

Stain Grade
Paint Grade
MDF
throw away

I'd use a throw away blade for cutting non-ferrous metals....

Context. Of course cutting something on a blade will dull it. I assume most would infer "any faster compared to other commonly cut materials in a guitar shop" as the context.

Translation if my intentions were unclear - things like bone and most tropical hardwoods will dull blades as fast or faster than most aluminum alloys, and for 15" of cut on 3/16 aluminum, I wouldn't worry about it. Just don't let it heat or clog.



Note : Aluminum chips will stick to the blade like putty when they get warm or you cut too fast. If it does clog, you'll feel the "chunk a chunk a chunk a" as the blade rolls around. If it starts to feel rough, take a quick break and clean off the blade. Sometimes you can clear the chips with a little file brush, though sometimes you'll find a few big ones that have to be picked off with a pick or knife. This is really what cutting fluids are for in metal cutting saws - they are more for cooling and clearing shavings than they are for lubrication. Without fluids you just have to manually keep an eye on that.

_________________
Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

This is why you save a retired bandsaw blade. Acrylics, too.

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

What David said. And I'll repeat the most important part... NO OIL!

long

_________________
"No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it's not the same river and he's not the same man.” -Heraclitus of Ephesus

Aluminum? For what JJ? Pretty much everything can be made from plywood, hardwood, and phenolic.
But, if you're going to cut aluminum, use a non-ferrous metals carbide blade in your table saw or chop saw. Home depot sells a stick lubricant that is really helpful for cutting it.

_________________
"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

When considering my opinions here, it may be worth noting that I don't baby my tools. I have a dozen or so blades welded per order, go through at least one or two a month, and at around $10 apiece consider them about as disposable as paper towels. On any given day will be cutting bone, hardwoods, plywood, aluminum, plastics - whatever is needed at the moment. I go through blades because it's impractical for me to change blades six times a day for the material at hand. I keep a bi-metal blade on a second bandsaw for things like brass and soft iron, but it's too fine-toothed to be practical for aluminum without a cutting fluid so I just use my wood saw.

If I were doing more delicate or precision work like resawing I would be a bit more careful with that blade. For me the band saw is just the all-purpose go to tool for whatever part, caul, tool, etc., that I can walk in, cut, and walk out. I use a metal chop saw for things like angle iron and bar stock. For straight cuts 3/16" flat stock aluminum though, I would actually be more likely to do as Don said though and take it to the table saw.

_________________
Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

Thanks, Todd...Since you seem to have done this more than a few times, I take your input with a bit more power. Thanks also for the tip on the tablesaw...I just happen to have an older Diablo blade which I'd be willing to sacrifice.

Don...I had heard from others who have made the jig that Aluminum was the preferred material...in fact, the plans that I got from Rick Micheletti actually recommend Al.

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

I hear ya....personally, I think it's overkill, but you gotta use what you feel comfortable with sometimes. That said...I built my cnc out of aluminum, so I know it's advantages. Just not sure the binding jig really requires it. I've built bunches using phenolic for the replacement trimmer base, and it works fine, and is really easy to machine compared to aluminum.

_________________
"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."