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This is a WRC top dreadnought size braced mainly with sitka spruce . The top is just under .125 in thickness. The main braces are all 1/4 inch . Just under 3/4 inch high at the X . The top according to my deflection tests is almost as stiff along the grain and as stiff across the grain as the Adi top I used on No 1. I am a little perplexed not knowing whether this is a really stiff cedar or the Adi was on the flexible side . Please feel free to be brutally honest. I promise not to be offended. Thanks in advance.

Craig.

It looks good Craig my friend

Good observation on the stiffness of the Adi. The first couple Adi tops that I worked with were very wimpy in comparison to what I use these days. So I did not know if this was what to expect generally speaking. You will figure it out though as you handle more tops and have more completed guitars to reference in terms of results.

You did a good job of carving triangular shapes but some of the braces look higher than they need to be to me. I would reduce more height at the X intersection and taper more away after that in all directions. The tone bars look high to me too - better have some Doritos on hand for them.....

With no deflection testing data or method .125 is probably a good number for WRC.

Lastly why the duality of upper transverse brace - is that a Jungian thing?

Overall the top looks a bit over braced for my liking but this is what we all tend to do on the early guitars and it's really the problem to have because it can be easily corrected if you wish to do so. In your case the issue, IMHO, is the height of the braces and not the width - very easy to correct.

Nice job!

Any reason why you chose to use two finger braces instead of four? I would have used four on a Dread. Also they seem to be angled quite perpendicular to the grain, but maybe that's just the camera angle.

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David White, Toronto

"All my favourite singers can't sing."

Thanks Hesh It really is difficult for me to keep carving. I have visions of the top folding as I bring the strings up to concert pitch for the first time. . I must add that this is a true flat-top. No radius at all on the top. I understand you can go lighter with the added strength of a 28ft radius. Please correct me if my logic is flawed . The double upper transverse bracing is an Olsen copy. I will probably do away with this down the track.
Dave you are correct in seeing the unconventional angle of the side tone bars. This is an idea I got from Mario. Thought I would give it a try. Do you think it could lead to structural problems or just a tone thing?

Regards

Craig.

Thanks Hesh It really is difficult for me to keep carving. I have visions of the top folding as I bring the strings up to concert pitch for the first time. . I must add that this is a true flat-top. No radius at all on the top. I understand you can go lighter with the added strength of a 28ft radius. Please correct me if my logic is flawed . The double upper transverse bracing is an Olsen copy. I will probably do away with this down the track.
Dave you are correct in seeing the unconventional angle of the side tone bars. This is an idea I got from Mario. Thought I would give it a try. Do you think it could lead to structural problems or just a tone thing?

Regards

Craig.

I have no idea.

It might be a good idea for you to think of the guitar as an interdependent system. I wouldn't recommend borrowing different ideas from different bracing patterns unless you're doing so with a clear goal in mind and an expectation of what those changes will be... I hope that doesn't sound too critical, perhaps you've thought this through very well.

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David White, Toronto

"All my favourite singers can't sing."

Ok I understand now thanks Craig - if the idea for the single finger braces came from Grumpy AND as Dave mentioned you account for any other systemic interdependencies related to Grumpy's finger braces I would not give it a second thought. Grumpy's stuff works!

When I built my first I was absolutely sure that the neck was going to come off when I strung it up...... But it didn't - I am sorry to say...... That guitar was so very ugly that when I put it outside on trash day the trash men left it in my yard......

You are doing great Craig so cut yourself some slack my friend - I am sure that the top that you have right now would be fine.

Are you keeping a close eye on humidity?

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"It's a Tone Faerie thing"
"Da goal is to sharpen ur wit as well as ye Sgian Dubh"
"Sippin Loch Dhu @Black lake" ,Kirby O...

Is that 3/4" X including the patch on top? Bracing height and profile looks pretty good to me.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Thanks folks for your input. I appreciate all your feedback.
David my only reason for doing the Mario style side tone bars was that the top felt quite stiff across the grain and thought angling them more along the grain would balance things out a little. I guess I'll find out once I string it up.
K.O. Yep I leart my lesson with No 1 . The top turned slightly concave on me . Still sounded ok though. I have been very carefull to glue as close to 45% as I can.
Howard the X brace is just under 3/4 inch without the cap. Do you feel this is too high?

Regards
Craig.

I wouldn't say too high. I've been going 5/8" without the cap, but usually 5/16 in width. The X is going to be a major node in any case, so how you slope down from it matters more than its exact height, IMO.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Thanks Howard, that info helps me plan for future builds. I have noted that most larger bodied guitars are being braced with 5/16 and will follow suit from here on.

Regards

Craig.