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 Post subject: Bridge plate thickness?
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 10:49 pm 
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What is the common thickness of a maple bridge plate on a dreadnaught? Right now it is .125
I checked in the archives and couldn't find anything on it. I have the top braced and this will be the last piece I have to glue in.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 11:20 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Chuck buddy I use about .090".


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 12:13 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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+1 to what Hesh said

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 12:15 am 
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Don't listen to Hesh. The correct thickness is .089 give or take .001.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 6:39 am 
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Make that two for .089.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:06 am 
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I usually go with .100, sometimes .110

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 1:42 pm 
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does everyone radius their bridge plates or just plop them in and let them conform to the radius dish? ive only done one (.090"), but i did not radius it.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 1:46 pm 
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I tried a thick bridge plate (about .160) with a tall/thick bridge and it seemed to work OK (the top seems very stable). The bass notes were more accentuated...which was kind of what I expected since I figured I added more mass than stiffness...

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 3:55 pm 
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I've seen many cracked & deteriorated plates in the last 30 + years.
Big repair job-not easy to do right!
thin ones go first!
I make mine of a .080 +.020 + .020 hardwoods with the grain 90 degrees to each other.
Never had a cracked one or a ripped apart one(caused by the string balls)
Also as the ladies say-size does matter! oops_sign
mine are just bigger than the bridge-not large like I've seen on some guitars !
Just my thoughts on the subject!

Mike [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 4:26 pm 
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Mike are you saying you "glue" them up ply style? That might solve most cracking issues, as well as radius sanding taking some stress off.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 7:25 pm 
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I really appreciate all the replies. I thickness sanded it to .90 give or take a hair. John Hall drew a Martin pre-war bracing pattern for me. The bridge plate is maple and it's 46 mm wide. The sitka spruce top is .105"
I also didn’t radius it. I just now glued it in with hide glue. Would you advise I take it out and radius it?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:27 pm 
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ChuckH wrote:
I really appreciate all the replies. I thickness sanded it to .90 give or take a hair. John Hall drew a Martin pre-war bracing pattern for me. The bridge plate is maple and it's 46 mm wide. The sitka spruce top is .105"
I also didn’t radius it. I just now glued it in with hide glue. Would you advise I take it out and radius it?


No you're fine. Press on.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:26 am 
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Thanks John

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"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 12:53 pm 
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Timely post. Can I use walnut off cuts for a bridge plate with the grain running the length (left to right once installed)? Thanks.

Ron M.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:44 pm 
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What's peoples views of adding as brass shim to the back of the bridge plate?

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