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I know some use dremel tools for this but what about my Bosch PR-20? I've never notched a side for braces or even used my laminate timmer(except make sure it works). So I thought I'd ask for advice at this stage. Which do you all think would be easier for me? Also any tips on using the LT if I go that route? like what kind of bit to use?

Thanks, Jeremy

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Jeremy Douglas

Rig up an edge guide so that the router is stable and can't get away from you.

Hi Jeremy;

If you are using kerfed linings or even hand bent solid wood linings, I really see no reason for a power tool here.
I use an Exacto knife and maybe a fine chisel. As the amount of material you would be removing is very small. If you are describing the cuts needed for bracing inletting.
Binding and purfling channels ...that's a perfect use for a laminate router, provided you have the correct pilot bits.--N.C.

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Nehemiah Covey
www.coveysacoustics.com

Yes exactly. I've read up on the method for notching the rims with razor saw and chisel but I've read where people get better resutls using the dremel.

Michael, I'll be honest, I don't really know what you mean. I think I've got an edge guide for the Bosch but I don't see how this would help.

My thoughts for using the LT would be I could just set the depth on it and that seems like it would be more precise.

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Jeremy Douglas

I think I may have access to an air powered dremel tool. What kind of bit would I use?

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Jeremy Douglas

Laminate trimmer works great for that, especially if all your brace ends are the same height. 1/8" straight bit. Score the brace locations with a razor knife. I prefer to stop at the sides and just do a little cleanup. If you do go all the way through the sides, be careful of tearout.

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http://www.chassonguitars.com

NO I was taling a fabricated fixture that is Lshaped that the edge of the router will index aginst and set on the lower leg of this fixture to keep the router steady and level as you use it. It could be as simple as a piece of aluminum angle. with out somthing to guide the base cuting at the right angle and depth hand held is tricky.

but for that mater I I dont inlet my braces anymore but rather carve to zero at the lining intersection. so i am not the right person to ask

At Bourgeois and Molls used dremel with a cheap walmart bit. Did both all way through lining and side and just the lining. Lam trimmer can be used, but lot of tool to go about .060 deep and not not real thick hard wood. I now use the Foredom and in time wihen have a compressor probably the grinder tool which is what Bill I think does now. You can get a dremel a lot cheaper than a lam trimmer. Or do like suggested take a blitz saw and cut down and chisel out.

I use a Dremel on a Stew-Mac router base with a 1/8" spiral down-cut bit and it works great for me. I can notch my pockets in a few minutes. The worst part is the dust that gets in the way of seeing what I am doing but you would expect me to object to the dust.....

What I like about using the Dremel over a laminate trimmer is it is light weight and less intimidating, at least for me, to hold onto. If I had one of John Hall's die grinders I am sure I would like this even more for the same reasons. Maybe I need to get one.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I got antsy and went ahead and started with a razor saw, razor blade, and chisel. I've got the lower two back brace notches done. It's pretty easy and precise so far I'll see when I actually test fit how well I did.

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Jeremy Douglas

+1

Also easier for me to maneuver.

Don't see any reason why not use a laminate trimmer. Many builders I know use them. A lot more stable and precise than a Dremel....

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

Olson's website shows the slickest method I've seen...I'd link to his picture on his sight, but I don't want to offend anyone!

Long story short, he uses a plexiglass jig that he locates on his neck & tail blocks. He does the cutting with a laminate trimmer if I remember right..

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http://www.PeakeGuitars.com

Or, if you have a model you build repeatedly you could do it like this....



Image from Charlie Hoffman

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Brock - How does that template clamp to the rims?

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Steve Walden
Aspiring Builder,
Bartlesville, OK

I am sure there are registration pins that hold it in place.

I have a system too, it works a little differently but equally well. You can check it out here.

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=16730&p=238201&hilit=+Brock+Poling+Mold#p238201

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com