Official Luthiers Forum!

I closed up the body on my LMI kit and routed off the overhang.

1)My first question is, what is the best way to clear the pre-existing mortise slot? I'll have to remove part of the sides in this area and a small portion of the top. I'm worried about altering the mortise by using a chisel or file. Would a flush trim bit in my bosch LT work better? If not, how should I go about it by hand?

2) Then there's this business about a truss rod slot in the top. Robbie's video shows him routing a channel into the top but he also isn't using a premade neck and block. The neck block has a hole in it for the truss rod nut to sit in, so I don't see what I would need to cut the top out any farther than the mortise slot. I guess once I remove the excess sides and top for the mortise I can check it out but am I right in thinking I shouldn't need to remove any of the top behind the mortise?

Thanks

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Jeremy Douglas

If you use a sharp knife (like an xacto) and score the sides in line with the edge of the mortise, they'll break off when you push in on them - into the mortise in the neck block that is. I usually use the edge of a scraper or other such tool as a straight edge to start the score line and then just keep cutting deeper and deeper until there's not much thickness left. Then just flush the sides up with a small file or chisel and you'll get a clean mortise.

As for the slot in the top for the truss rod, I just use a small hand saw and freehand it. Again, clean it up with a chisel and you're done.

If you use a sharp knife (like an xacto) and score the sides in line with the edge of the mortise, they'll break off when you push in on them - into the mortise in the neck block that is. I usually use the edge of a scraper or other such tool as a straight edge to start the score line and then just keep cutting deeper and deeper until there's not much thickness left. Then just flush the sides up with a small file or chisel and you'll get a clean mortise.

As for the slot in the top for the truss rod, I just use a small hand saw and freehand it. Again, clean it up with a chisel and you're done.

Thanks guys. It sounds like the flush trimming bit is the way to go. I was thinking that would be the best way to clear out the rounded part at the bottom of the mortise.

Todd the truss rod does extend through the block on this kit but I'm still not sure why I have to cut the top out. Can I not just slide the truss rod into the hole that's already in the neck block when it comes time to bolt the neck on?

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Jeremy Douglas

I use the larger X-acto handle (red genuine imitation plastic one) with a little blade that X-acto sells that looks somewhat like a jig saw blade only is is narrower and has probably 30 TPI. I would take a picture for you but much of my guitar shop stuff is still packed up here.......

For the truss rod nut cavity I use a Dremel with a sanding drum only the 1/4" dia drums that they offer.

I usually drill a hole through the back over the mortise and enlarge it until I can drop a flush cutting router bit in. I'll second Todd's comment. Don't open the mortise until the binding is on. I did that once and had to make a plug for the mortise so my router bearing would track properly doing the back binding.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Thanks guys. I think the nut will be low enough and I don't see any reason why I can't just wait and see once the body is bound also.

Thanks again everyone

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Jeremy Douglas