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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:53 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:54 am
Posts: 28
Location: Colorado
First name: Gabriel
Last Name: Chiroux
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Hello guys and gals,
Before i ask my question i would just like to thank everyone for all the help you have indirectly given me over the past few years.
The problem i am having is that within a few days after tuning, the guitar will try and launch the bridge pins into orbit.
The pins are very tight when seated, so im thinking the problem lies in the string relief or the thickness of my bridge brace (or something i havent thought of).
im sure the answer is hiding in the arcives somewhere, however i get way too distracted by other topics when i try and find it myself.
i know you guys will set me on the right path, and thanks again for all the help.
Gabriel

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 7:25 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2005 4:49 pm
Posts: 1209
Location: Ukiah, CA
Did you make slots for the strings? That would probably fix it if you didn't. It's best for the bridge plate, too. Then just put the slotted pins in backwards. Do you have pictures?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 8:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 2:41 pm
Posts: 312
Could be the string ballends hanging up on the bridgepins--did you put a bevel on them, so the ballends can't catch?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:02 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:54 am
Posts: 28
Location: Colorado
First name: Gabriel
Last Name: Chiroux
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
i bought the pins and they came pre slotted.
ive been inserting the pins so the string runs up the slot. (that is probably my problem)
correct me if im wrong, what i should be doing is reversing the pins, so the slots face away from the strings.
bevel the pins towards the strings.
then cut more of a relief so the pin will fit all the way in again.
I'll post a pic as soon as my computer wants to cooperate.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 5:46 am
Posts: 2968
Location: United States
Bridge pins also come in two different angles (maybe more). This may also be part of the problem.
The correct thing to do is to slot the holes a little deeper. You can use your slotted bridge pins if just the way they are. The strings should be able to stay in the slots without the pin BTW.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 10:03 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:54 am
Posts: 28
Location: Colorado
First name: Gabriel
Last Name: Chiroux
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
so my relief should be deep enough that the string actually runs next to the hole i drilled, not half in and half out?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 10:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 10:03 am
Posts: 6680
Location: Abbotsford, BC Canada
There is some other questions that need to be asked/answered here too.

Are the bridge pin holes in the bridge (and through the top and bridge plate) tapered or just drilled with a straight bit?

Are the bridge pin holes in the bridge slotted (it doesn't sound like it)?

First you will want to make sure that the bridge pin holes in the bridge are tapered to match the bridge pins, this will ensure the pins fit in the holes well.

Next, it is a good idea to cut a slot in the bridge pin holes to allow the string somewhere to go (the slots on the bridge pins are never enough and debatably (is that a word?) a bad idea anyway). Take a read through this thread on bridge pin slots for some very good info on it. Than slot the bridge pin holes to match the strings and put the pins in.

It is my belief that the pin really just fills the hole in the bridge and doesn't have any effect on holding the string in place (that's with the slot in the bridge pin holes cut properly). Once there is a small amount of tension on my strings, i can remove my bridge pins and leave them out without worrying that the string will come out of the hole. The string bears entirely on the bridge plate.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:40 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:54 am
Posts: 28
Location: Colorado
First name: Gabriel
Last Name: Chiroux
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
im pretty sure you guys have set me straight.
Rod thanks for the link ive been lookin for that for at least a week.
i did taper the hole, however im pretty sure that i didnt create a large enough relief.
What i did was spin the pins around and sawed out some better relief slots, untill the pins sat snug again.
i tuned it back up, pulled out the pins, and the strings stayed nice and snug in those new slots.
Thanks for the help, hopeful someday i can return the favor.
Ive been trying to figure out how to post an image, but i think that problem have to wait untill tomarrow.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:57 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:08 pm
Posts: 1958
Location: Missouri
First name: Patrick
Last Name: Hanna
State: Missouri
Country: USA
Every once in a while I make a total display of my ignorance, and this is one such time. During the many years I played my flat top, and even when I had a technician install a new bridge on it, I never gave a thought to where the ball ends of my strings were, once they were down in the pin holes. The instrument just worked, and I never questioned why. My interest in building has centered on classicals and archtops, so I've never had a reason to wonder about it--although I have given some thought to building a jumbo with my 17-inch archtop mold. This entire string slot, bridge plate, and pin discussion makes perfect sense to me--now that several builders have explained it. It is always amazing to me how little gems of knowledge can be acquired when I'm just browsing, or looking for some entirely different piece of information. Thanks to all of you. Now I think I'll go slap my forehead again!
Patrick.


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