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What kind of bits or setups are most of you using for the pockets and access to the back. My problem was trying a pattern bit is if bearing rides on the template the bit hits the template and chews it up. I am guessing a template guide set with sprial bit or straight bit.

Also, how thick are most of your templates. I see some out there 1/4" I am again just concerned with cutting the template up or getting the bearing or guide to ride the template.

I have never figured out what the use of a pattern is. It cuts flush like a flush cutter (used for me in removing excess wood off tops and backs on rims mostly) Seems pattern bit is same thing as the bearing is same size as the cutter.

This is a whole new thing for me as always had pre done body with cuts in them prior (yea I guess a kit) so now want to go with it all my self.

Stan...It depends on the size, shape and depth needed for the pockets. I have initially used Forstner bits to hog out stock from the middle and then use a flush trim bit to clean up the perimeter. I have made templates from 1/4" Lexan and even 1/2" baltic ply. Sometimes I use a router guide bushing and then follow up with a flush trim bit.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Stan:
I did mine the way JJ described. Getting most of the wood out with a forstner bit, then using a flush trim bit and template. I also did some hand work with chisels. You shouldnt have any problem chewing up the template. Like everything luthery related, be patient and focus.

Darrin

I have a series of different length 1/2" diameter flat cut router bits... I just throw a 1/2" bearing and achoring sleeve on them (shortest to longest) and working my way into the pocket that I am doing...this allows me to ensure the bearing is engaging the router pattern properly while not hogging out huge amounts of material...

The only problem that I really have to worry about it heat build up in the bearing causing it to "melt" into the acrylic patterns - that is why I prefer to make my own out of plywood - which resists the heat a great deal better..

The forstner bits sound like they would not create such a big mess though..

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www.ziegenfussguitars.com

Oh...it's still messy...the only difference is that the forstner bits create larger particle sized waste, which I prefer. If you use the forstner bit, don't go to full depth for the pocket. Go over the area with the flat-bottomed router bit to make the deeper brad impressions from the forstner bit disappear.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

I'm another forstner bit user.

As for templates, I hate acrylic. Use polycarbonate (Lexan). Much better. Won't melt. I use MDF a lot too. I think it's much easier to use thicker template material, as you don't have to take such a deep cut on the first pass just to get your bearing on the template.

My favorite bit is a CMT, 1/2" shank "planer" bit. They're hard to find, but great bits. I think the cutterhead is 5/8" wide, but only 1/2" tall or less, with the bearing on top. Stubby li'l fellas.

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Mike

"The Dude abides. I don't know about you but I take comfort in that. It's good knowin' he's out there. The Dude. Takin' 'er easy for all us sinners. Shoosh." The Stranger

I like to use these for finishing up an access pocket: Dish carving bits - most router bit suppliers carry them. They're usually used for routing out bowls and things, but work quite well for making the bottom of an access pocket clean and neat, once you've roughed out the rest, using a template and a router guide bushing. Heck, I even use one for my truss rod slot. gives a nice rounded bottom. But I do like the idea of using a forstner bit to get most of the wood out first.

I use forstners bits for bulk removal then finish freehand......

I really SHOULD try templates some of these days........

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