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Nice vids, Chris...I always enjoy watching your productions.

A few observations and suggestions meant constructively;

1) I would recommend using a lower bout spreader to keep the sides closer to the form until the profile is locked in place.

2) Try clamping your mold vertically (east and west being up and down) in a vise and then install the liner. It makes for a much easier glue application as well as for positioning the glue-laden liners. Gravity is your friend here.

3) I've had success pre-bending liners in the side bender...a light spritz wrapped in craft paper and taking the temp to 250* works great. This is especially helpful in preventing breakage in tighter-waisted models.

Thanks for posting...looking forward to the next installment!

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Thanks JJ,
I acually have and did the other side of the back with the guitar vertically and I did like that as I also didn't have to bend over to see what was happening and probably will go that route from now on and I also laid some more of the clips on the side. But for some reason I thought it would be easier to video laying down and that has been mostly how I did it to that point. Pre bend the linings. Hmmm, great tip I never thought about that.
Lower bout spreader. Yeah, I got lazy on this one but the sides are pretty much too shape against the form on this one.
This is the second time I glued in the back linings. The first time I had the LB spreader in and the ribrest insert wasn't glued in either. Although my sides were pre tapered before bending when I radius sanded the back on a 15' dish the waist linings were taken down to about 3/8" so I removed the back linings with a hot air gun and putty knife. They were HHG in and came out easy.When I tried the HHG on the back (I used titebond on the top) for the first time, that's when I got the idea of turning the mold and letting gravity work for me. I also heated the linings and side with a hot air gun.
I'm going to modify my form on the next one with a radiused tapered ring that will sit on top of the mold and use a router to taper the sides and then also shave the linings like Todd Lunneborg TL Guitars does with his.
Thanks for the tips. Your Website looks good too. Hope you get some orders.

Chris:

Another good video. And I do not think the inside cleaning is too much. Nice tips on scraping the oxidized wood (now I will do it) and using a brush to push back the glue.

I spritz the solid part of the reverse kerf lining a few minutes before glueing and it cuts way down on the breakage.

Thanks again.

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GEO
perpetual beginner

"And I do not think the inside cleaning is too much."

I've been laid off since Jan. 2 except for 2 weeks in April. Don't have much money but have time. Better to clean up the inside and make YouTubes then sitting around watching the Tube worrying about money and stressing out. Got to keep moving and use this time off being productive and doing something I enjoy. If I get lucky maybe I can make this a career change

Great job again, Chris.

One suggestion if you don't mind. When 'pre-fitting' the linings, and figuring out their length, use a piece of tape along the inside. Trim it about 1/16" from the blocks and you'll have your lining length. Now, just put the tape on the lining and cut it.



Edit: Another idea I just had. If you have side templates then you can just measure off the end points half the width of your blocks, minus that 1/16" on each end. That should get you there. Maybe you'll have to take off a bit more for the thickness of the side, but it should be very very close. Once you get it the first time, just mark it down somewhere and you'll have it for next time.

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Thanks for the video Chris. I too like your tip on scraping oxidization prior to glue. Like the clamps too. I still use clothes pins reinforced with rubber band.

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Ron

Nice tips, keep them coming if you have them. I've never have seen how anyone actually did this and I just learned it by doing and seeing pictures of it already done but not a video on it. So I guess this was a good one to post as it is yeilding good tips and discussion on the subject. Funny because it is something that is always pretty much at the start if you start out with a kit.
I like the neat colors of the clamps, it cheers me up.
Edit: I bought a cloth tape measure but can't remember where it is?

Thanks Chris ...I always enjoy your clips....I had a problem with the reverse mahogany linings on my first guitars....I found that if I soak them in warm water for a few minutes , wipe of excess water and clamp them temporarily to the outside of the rim, when they dry you should have no problems with breaking....Larry

Thank you Chris for making your video's! They have helped me a great deal. Thanks Again!