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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 4:31 am 
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Location: Branson, MO
First name: stan
Last Name: thomison
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Zip/Postal Code: 65616
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I took a top off of guitar and removed most of the old kerfing and got spruce off of neck and tail blocks. Of course the blocks are now higher than the rim less than 1/8 or .125 or whatever mm that is. I noted prior to removing the kerfing, that it was still at the same height of the blocks. Reason removed old kerfing is some of it broke when removing top, it was pretty thin and not sure about stability along with other issues. I was just not comfortable leaving it on, in addition, it would look awful later if inspected. With those things known, looking for options as to putting on a new top. I before have just sanded the blocks down to the rim, put on new kerf and then put on top like one would do normally, of course guitar less in depth. Is that my only option? Can I put on new kerfing and height of the blocks, bowel sand for radii of top and then glue new top on? I think still leaves issue of top continues to be higher a small amount from rim, as the new kerf is higher than rim the say for comment 1/8" whatever that number is. What can be done if anything, other than sanding blocks down to rim height and making depth less?stan thomison38378.5234143519


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 4:36 am 
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 4:49 am 
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Stan, I think I would put the kerfed lining back in as if the rims were full height, however I think I would fudge it a little lower in order to get a good clean binding channel cut. In other words the lining would be glued on at the same height as the blocks and then re-sanded on your bowl. Then install the new top. When you re-rout the channel you should get a new channel thru the sides to the kerfing. Does that make sense? The height of the guitar will be a little lower than it was originally depending on how much you have to sand to get a good top joint. Or you could leave the lining a little proud of it's original location and bowl sand. When you glue the linings in make yourself a height gauge that keys off the sides as you move around the guitar, that way you can get better positioning of the linings.

How did you remove the top? Did you route it off? Hopefully you gave a nice clean edge on the sides to use as a reference.
Hope this helps, John

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 5:32 am 
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Stan, I've done it both ways in the past. Like you've said, one option is to put the linings flush with the sides and sand the blocks down, thus decreasing the depth of the sides.
Another option I've done is to make some sort of guage as John suggests. This will bring the linings up to the blocks and proud of the sides. Then fill in the gap between the sides and what would be the top with something like .080 black binding. Anything will work but you don't want to have to deal with prebending it. Once that is in and dry you can grind it all down to raduis and slap on your top. You'll route off most of the filler strip when you route for bindings but there should be a sliver left which will prevent the binding from tipping in the channel. Hope that helps. Good luck. Paul


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 5:54 am 
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Location: Branson, MO
First name: stan
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Country: united states
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
Thanks guys. Yes I did use router to take it off, by going just past the sides and kerf and then just gave it a pull and it came off. Did leave a little wood on the blocks but used a sharp chisel and ibex plane to take that off.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 6:10 am 
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All good advice. I'm voting for John's suggestion of leaving the linings proud. If you start making the guitar shallower, you'll be affecting the tone that much more--in addition to the changes that adding a new top introduce. Perhaps with luck it will sound like it originally did, or even better. Good luck!

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