Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi
I don't own a jointer and I am wondering if anyone uses a hand jointer.
There are some nice 24" jointers available.
Doing it by hand seems like a nice option.
What is the consenscious?
Andy

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

Andy, lots of folks use a shooting board and a plane, its a great choice!

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

I have stanley #6, #7, and #8 planes. I think the 7 and 8 are a little too big to use effectively.

Right now I have been using a #5 and #6 about equally. These seem to be a little easier to handle.

I have been looking at the Lie Neilsen #9 Miter plane though, but I suspect that isn't going to improve my results.

Hope this helps.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

The hand jointers (power)are not effective for joining the thin guitar plates. A shooting board and hand plane work very well. For me I have always used Shooting Board with a #7 Stanley and that works well for me. Some people use a jig and a router. Other people have had success with sandpaper stuck on the bottom of a level. There are many ways to skin a cat.

I use an LN 4-1/2 with a simple shooting board setup, it's a little short but it does the job just fine.

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

I also just use a 41/2, in my case an old Stanley, with a similar set up to Jon. However I also have a longer piece of wood underneath the top or back pieces and level with their front edge that also gets planed along with them. This is a sacrificial piece that is long enough so that the whole plane is in contact at both ends of the run against the top/back boards. I find, helps to keep the plane running straight at the ends of the boards. (My planing technique needs all the help it can get)

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Hi Andy

I use an old record No 5 Plane and a shooting board, I have made one with Toggle clamps all round, as I like the material to be held really firmly.

Thanks for that tip Colin!
I can see how that would help for a nice straight run across the whole edge. I use a shooting board setup based on the Cumpiano book. It seems to work well for those of us who don't get it right the first time.
I also use a florescent lamp mounted up the wall for candling to check how tight I shot the edge.

Wade

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Wade
Nashua, NH
http://www.wadefx.com

Wade, that flourescent light on the wall idea is a good one! Thanks!

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

Andy I use a #5 and sometimes a #7 plane on a shooting board. I have use 80 grit adhesive back paper on a 36" precision milled level with good success. StewMac sells a precision milled piece of aluminum tubing for fretboard leveling that would be good for this as well. I don't think you would be happy with the results of a hand powered jointer. A plane and shooting board. gives as good of results as you could ask for, and takes no more time than a power jointer after you get the knack, less when you figure set-up time on the power jointer. A finely sharpened plane blade is required.

Thanks for the info.
It seem few of you use a #7 jointer. It seem you prefer the shorter bench/
jack planes.
Is this because it is easier to use, or is it because that is what you have and
it can serve more functions.

Andy

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

Ditto on the plane (#6) and a sharp Hock blade

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Colin

I love the idea of the extension to prevent any run off.

Wade

I think the flourescent Light is a Great idea too.

Thought I would post a couple of Pics of my shooting board , the side bar moves in and out for different widths of board and is locked via the wing nuts.

[QUOTE=azimmer1] Thanks for the info.
It seem few of you use a #7 jointer. It seem you prefer the shorter bench/
jack planes.
Is this because it is easier to use, or is it because that is what you have and
it can serve more functions.

Andy[/QUOTE]


I find the bigger planes are just a little harder to handle. If a handle was on the side (as in the miter plane) it might be easier.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Andy

For me on the plane it is because I don't own a jointer and I find the No.5 serves many purposes.

Most jointer planes are 14"+ and harder to enter the cut square...I know it is probably me and my technique but a good #7 will do the job just fine. That and it is a more versatile plane.

[QUOTE=MichaelP] Most jointer planes are 14"+ and harder to enter the cut square...I know it is probably me and my technique but a good #7 will do the job just fine. That and it is a more versatile plane.[/QUOTE]

I thought a #7 was a jointer plane? Did you mean #5?

#7 and #8 are jointer planes.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

I use a #5 and a shooting board as well. I have a #7 but it feels too large for working on such small pieces of wood.

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53% of all statistics are made up on the spot
http://driftwoodguitars.blogspot.com/

I recently bought an Anant No. 7 Jointer Plane after JJ recommended them. I haven't used it yet as I haven't had time to tune it but I would think the longer plate would be an advantage. I have a 6 inch Craftsman jointer but have decided to use a shooting board for top/back joining.Don A38629.8859375

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

I haven't managed to buy a decent plane yet, so I sanded. I put a strip of adhesive backed sandpaper on my table saw top and used the fence as a perpendicular guide. Taped the two halves together and slid them back and forth. My join came out so good I decided not to use a backstrip.

Ron

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

[QUOTE=old man] I haven't managed to buy a decent plane yet, so I sanded. I put a strip of adhesive backed sandpaper on my table saw top and used the fence as a perpendicular guide. Taped the two halves together and slid them back and forth. My join came out so good I decided not to use a backstrip.

Ron[/QUOTE]

Ron, thats how I built my first 2 and they are still holding strong.

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

I use a shoothing board and a hand plane too. I have tried to do it with every bench plane size that I own (#4, 5, 5 1/2, 6 and 7). I like the #5 1/2 size best, it's a nice medium size. Heavy enough for a steady and chatter free movement, but not so big and heavy that it becomes unruly. I hold the plates down on against the shoothing board stops by hand so I can check progress constantly. The whole process takes less than 5 minutes.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

yep I miss typed My jointer is a #7 I ment #5

Andy,
I posted a similar post to this and received great advice from everybody! My plane it turns out didn't work so good for me...so until I get a new one....I used double stick tape on a level and made a shooting board set-up and clamped in my vise. I leveled my boards and sanded on the top. I was able to see my progress from the side as I sanded. I'm sure this would work with a "good" plane also. I did use the shooting board on a table, but felt more comfortable with the boards in a vise. I am putting my top on an electric. I can't see any light through the seam, so I guess I did all right!
Mark