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I was thinking I would glue all of my binding strips together with CA glue(that's super glue right?) and then bend them on myside bender. I didn't want to do this with yellow glue because it won't hold together at that heat range. Will the CA glue stand up to the heat?

Thanks

Graham

Not sure on the CA Graham ?

Another option is to use a waterproof PVA, this is what I use and it works fine, much cheaper than CA too.

tightbond II and use little to no water. I am now laminating all my bindings with it, and binding my fingerboards with it.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Graham,
Are you talking about gluing the side purfling to the bindings, and then bending it as a unit?
That's what I do, and in fact I use CA for the job. To answer your question, yes, it will stand up to the heat. But--Russell, is right, Titebond III is cheaper. And, the CA will still release fumes when it hits the bender. Take the neccessary precautions.

SteveSteve Kinnaird38633.0350694444

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Graham I use Titebond II and havn't had a problem.

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I use CA to glue side purfling to the binding, I wrap tape around both every few inches and drip the glue between. How do you Titbond people do it?

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I use CA for that, and have had great results. It's almost like the CA glue bends along with everything. I never have a separation. It does give off fumes though.

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I bend the side purfling strips taped between my binding strips unglued. I don't know that it is better or worse but I just like the idea of not heating the glue and seems easier.

Guys, there's a MUCH better way to do this. Sorry Tim, the cat's out of the bag now. Tim Mc taught me this and I'll never look back. I used to use CA, poly, Tightbond...I tried everything but couldn't keep my thin maple purfling line from trying to twist at the tight bends. So Tim told me to make a pack of two binding strips sandwiching the purfling lines. Then tape them very tightly THE WHOLE LENGTH like a barber pole. If you tape in a straight line every few inches, it can still creep on you but the barber pole spiral keeps it all very secure. Absolutely perfect bends every time. Then you can glue them as you wish when applying them to the body.
Don't say I never gave you anything.

Hey thanks for all the great answers guys!

Steve: I hadn't though about bending the binding and purfling already glued together. I'll give that a try.

Paul: Tim's barber pole tape idea sounds really good also. I'll have to give that go as well.

Thanks

Graham

the only problem I see with gluing them up before binding is if you are going to miter around your end graft and your cutaway (presuming you have one) is you will have to be much more accurate with your miters.

I prefer to do the purflings separate and "tack weld" them in place with CA at the end graft before I install the bindings and glue it all up.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

This is why the tape idea works so well. They are all seperate when you cut the tape off. Try it! It works!

This is why the tape idea works so well. They are all seperate when you cut the tape off. Try it! It works!

Paul, how easy is it to get the tape off after you cook it?

[QUOTE=Robbie O'Brien] Paul, how easy is it to get the tape off after you cook it?[/QUOTE]

Um, yeah...no gooey mess?

What type of CA are you all using. I just tried this for the first time and the CA was so brittle after the bend that several of the sections of purfling has delaminated. I bet I used the wrong stuff.

Paul, I like that idea of the full body wrap and purflings loose. That sounds like a fine idea, than you can just cut the channels and glue it all in once set. I would think this helps make getting the miters right also.

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starbond.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Seriously, Just tape (in three places) the purfling between the binding peices and bend 6 to 8 peices at a time. It really is easy, no glue no mess and you can put it how you want it fairly easily.