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Hey All...
Im starting my first electrics! I originally was gonna build one but decided on building two side by side.
They are more or less les paul style but my own design with a few changes.
24.562" scale length
string thru with a tune o matic bridge
Black cherry bodies
One maple top and the other black walnut
Rosewood FB on the maple and black locust on the walnut
Black walnut necks (not 100% on that yet)
Seymore Duncan stack P-90s
Tru Oil finish
(some of this may change as i go but this are where Im at now)



So far I glued up my tops and cut the backs out.
Now heres for my question:
The backs are 1 5/8" thick, I weighed one and it came out about 6 3/4lbs (only cut out, no routs or anything yet), that seemed a bit on the heavy side?
does anyone know how heavy is a les paul back is before the top or routs are in?
I am gonna make a heel and belly contour on the back which will reduce it somewhat, but the top still has to go on...
So I guess my question is, should I chamber them? or does that sound reasonable (im a complete newbie to electrics so bear with me)...
Here are some pics:




Anyway I always enjoy watching other peoples builds so i figured I would try and post updates as I go along.

Peace, Jebarri

The walnut top you have there is a real looker!- it's my favorite wood for electric tops and the tru-oil on it will be beautimous.

In terms of chambering, I would be inclined to chamber the walnut/cherry combination unless the cherry happens to weigh in on the lighter end of the spectrum. Guys like Roger Sadowsky were chambering their electrics initially for the weight loss, but customers are reporting that they like the responsiveness of the new instruments better.
In a video interview, he mentioned that the weight of the wood slabs he has recieved lately have been heavier than in years past.

Rodger

that's a pretty interesting body style, i feel like it would be a cool one to do some carvings or something on. do you have any idea what kind of headstock design you will do? in my humble opinion i think something similar to an f style peghead off of a mandolin could look pretty cool.

_________________
~shad peters

http://www.flickr.com/photos/petersinstruments/
http://petersinstruments.blogspot.com/
http://petersinstruments.com/

I forgot to mention that 6.75 lbs, uncarved & routed, is definitely on the heavy side.
Also forgot to say that I like the "organic" body shape. I can't wait to see that with the top.
R

Ok, well Ill probably end up doing some kind of chambering then to get the weight down a bit, any ideas as to how heavy is normal at this stage?

Here is the headstock design that Ive been thinking about...
(sorry about the bad pic, taken with my iSight cam :S)

Thanks, Jebarri

Since I am a hobbyist "luthier" and a bass player, my opinion on initial weight is not based on years of experience. Just as a reference I have attached a photo of a South American Mahogany bass body that measures 13" at the widest and a length of 21" to the tip of the upper horn; 1.75" thick. The weight at this point is 5lbs. Mahogany can vary quite a bit, but I think this is average weight for this wood and probably much lighter than the black cherry.
I would be inclined to rout out as much of the cherry as possible.
Rodger

Thanks Rodger,
I Routed out the neck pocket and drilled out the control cavitys which took off 3/4lbs but im definitely gonna do some chambering or weight relief holes.

Jebarri

Be forewarned: using cherry for the bodies will make the guitars really bright. If you're looking for that classic LP tone, you're not going to get it this way.

_________________
Bad decisions make for good stories.
-------John


My blog - http://poplarmechanics.blogspot.com/

Thanks for the heads up, Im not specifically looking for the les paul tone, more using the design as a starting point as I am new to electrics.

So I did some work on the necks, routed neck pocket and control cavities, drilled a bunch of weight relief holes and carved a belly cut (if thats the correct term) I also ended sanding the body thickness down 1/8th to 1 1/2
All this done the weight is down to 4 1/4lbs give or take, ill see what the tops add to that once they are arched.

Now for the pics:

Cheers, Jebarri

Well I got the necks fit and the tops carved, and got the fingerboards thicknessed, fret slots cut and curly maple binding gluing today...
Pictures:

Cheers, Jebarri

looking good keep us posted with more

_________________
~shad peters

http://www.flickr.com/photos/petersinstruments/
http://petersinstruments.blogspot.com/
http://petersinstruments.com/

Well its been a while since I did much on the guitars...
The heads went through a design change which I finally got sorted out and now Im getting back into building.
Heres what I have done:


The Fingerboards aren't glued on yet and the truss rods still have to go in...
Im using lmi duel action truss rods and when I routed the channels they ended up oversize by about 1/32 so the rods are a little loose, what's the best solution for this?
I don't want them to rattle obviously so I was thinking I could either put a 1/32" wood strip on one side assuming that moving the rod to one side by that little wouldn't affect the neck? Or put a few layers of masking tape along each side till it was snug? what would you do?
As always Im open to suggestions, tips, critiques whatever...

Jebarri

Jebarri at 1/32" I would probably try to shim a little, and if you can find some of the really thin veneer that would work fine.....I think. I can attest to the fact that truss rod will rattle even if it is very tight when installed. The best way to counteract this is by using some silicone caulking (carefully, I might add) in the truss rod channel. I think most folks apply masking tape on the surface of the neck either side of the channel to make sure there is no silicone on the wood you need for gluing your fretboard to.

Hopefully someone more experience will drop by and give you the correct way to do this.

Mike

Been there. Personally, I wouldn't worry about the rattle. When you tighten up the rod, the rattle will stop.

_________________
Bad decisions make for good stories.
-------John


My blog - http://poplarmechanics.blogspot.com/

Thanks guys...
I made up some veneer shims and installed the rods with silicone. I see what you mean here but having heard stories of rattling truss rods I decided Id rather be on the safe side.

Jebarri

Fair enough.

_________________
Bad decisions make for good stories.
-------John


My blog - http://poplarmechanics.blogspot.com/

]Hey there people,
I've been working away the past week or so and heres what I have got done:
Binding is in, drilled a bunch of holes for the bridge posts, switch/pots, string thru and output jack... and today I routed for and did some work on cover plate....

Pics:


BTW the last two pics are just mocked up with the pickup covers bridge and fingerboard.
I'm gonna make wood pickup covers as well but don't have the right router bit yet....

Feel free to comment or critique

Jebarri

Lol, thanks Chris, yeah Im not sure what you would call them either...
The design is based off of a acoustic I made a few years back.

Jebarri

Nice looking pair. I'm using cherry for the body on mine too, so it will be interesting to see how it works for us. That Walnut top is stunning. Nice touches on the end of the fingerboards, too. Keep the pics coming.

Thanks Redfish, I checked your build out, looking good... I don't know how the wood combos will turn out but we'll find out I guess

Jebarri

Well I finally got the router bit I needed and so ive done some more work over the past few days.
I made pickup covers for my P-90s which after some trial and error I made it out with two sets.

...And routed pickup cavities today.

Next up I have to figure out what I'm gonna do about fret markers and glue the fingerboards on/flatten/radius/fret, and all that stuff...

Jebarri

Well folks, its getting close!
Since last time I glued and radiused the fingerboards, carved the necks and did the fretting, as well as some work on the bodies, and back veneers for the headstocks...
I used stainless steel frets which despite hearing mixed reviews were not bad to work with... yeah they're not as soft as regular frets but hey, thats the point!
So now its pretty much down to lots and lots of sanding and then finishing and of course the assembly and wiring...
anyways here are the pics...


Cheers, Jebarri

Very cool, like the original design elements. Wish my first electric build was as cleanly done!

Thanks Edward,
I put the first coat of tru oil on last night! Im not sure how much time ill have to work this week but I'll do more coats whenever I can squeeze it in
here are a few pics: