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Hi everyone. I'm refinishing an old bass from the early 90s. A Galveston 5 String. I have a quick question on the neck - I have it stained already and sanded down to 400 grit. I was wondering on a finish for it?

Would it be okay to get it to around 600 and call it done? I'm thinking leaving it unfinished because I like the feel of the wood and I'm afraid a coating of some sort would inhibit easy movement up and down the neck.

If you can't tell, I've never done this before. Any advise would be great! Is it okay to leave it bare, stained and sanded wood? Or would the oils from fingers eventually absorb into it and damage it?

Not putting a finish on it will lead to hand oil build up in the wood and any other contaminates you may expose it to like spilled beer or other alcohol which will cause splotching of the stain you have applied. Plus just the friction and wear of play will wear away the stain.

What do you plan to finish the body with? Nitrocellulose lacquer? There are lots of finishes that will produce a faster slicker neck feel than bare stained wood. It is mostly a mater of prep and finish rubout that will set the feel and speed of the neck. In fact as the dirt and grime builds on the bare neck it will get slow and gunky. now if it is a rock maple neck than what I mentioed is not as much of an issue but since you stained it I assume it is mahogany

Michael - Thanks for the quick reply!

I haven't decided on the body finish yet, but from what I've read I'm leaning towards Tru-Oil for a few reasons: Cost, ease of use, and lack of space. I don't have a shop or anything - just a few hand tools, a power sander and my basement. I also don't have the money for a spray rig or anything like that. I'm slowly acquiring the tools/things needed to start a small woodshop but I don't have anything yet, really.

Would Tru-Oil work well on the neck? I would follow steps in this: http://www.lmii.com/carttwo/truoil.htm

I'm not sure of the wood type - it was a second (probably third or fourth) hand bass that I got for free a while ago. Haven't really played it much in the last few years.

if the wood is a light pinkish tan or a redish brown it is Mahogany. the odds are it is mahogany.

If the neck is a white blond or slight greenish white blond it is maple Those are the two most common neck woods used. Also if you can notice pores in the wood it is probably mahogany. maple has very tight cloed pores that are almos unnoticable to the untrained eye. Tru oil makes a fine neck & body finish. Once cured out 10-30 days you can rub out through 2000p or finer and buff or polish it to produce a very fast neck.

You just sealed the deal for me. I'm gonna go with the Tru-Oil. By your descriptions, I'd say the neck is maple. Lighter in color and no pores that I noticed.

Would you suggest sealing/pore filling the body? I think I would rather the open-grain. I also would think that filling the neck would be a good thing for smoothness.

Also, I can still use Tru-Oil after staining, correct?

if it is maple it does not need pore filling. if it is mahogany it will need pore filling. there are lots of differnt pore fillers but i suggest Zpoxy finishing resin for ease of application. I suggest sealing with with shellac sanding sealer.

You say open grain maple will be near slick a glass I think maybe you are refering to pores as being open grain here are tow phots one of a light colored mahogany and the other maple. both in the white (bare wood) regardles I suggest finish on the wood.