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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:30 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:06 am
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Location: Cornwall UK
First name: Steve
Last Name: Marsh
State: Cornwall
Country: United Kingdom
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This came through from a friend in the USA, so can anyone help?
It was bought from Sears and Roebuck, ( it didn't have the leather work on!) for about 50$ in the 70's, so does anyone know what it is? And, more importantly, do you know where I can find a wiring diagram for it? I'm assuming it had 2 x 2way switches?

One other thing, where's the best place over there to get the bits?

Many Cheers.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:32 am 
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Mahogany
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Whoops, it's the wrong way round, sorry.

Here's the pic of the scratchplate and electrics.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 11:40 am 
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Cocobolo
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I am guessing here but I think you need 2 single throw slider switches (on/off). Then you wire each one to the on off switch then send it to the volume knob.

I know this is an amp switch but this is what it looks like.
http://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/Switches/Fender-Blackface-Silverface-Style-Bright-Switch

You could try radio shack...

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 3:04 pm 
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Walnut
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Whooee! That takes me back in time to ordering my first , non borrowed guitar. 1978 I ordered a "GLOBAL" guitar and 10w amp from the Sears catalog. The guitar came with a gig bag that had snaps on the tail end, so they broke and it got scratched the first week.
Your guitar has a lot of after market decoration added to it . How to wire it? You were correct about the slider switches, they were just on-off, but a couple on-off-on switches would give you phase switching which I always thought would be a plus for that axe.
I am honestly surprised if any of the original plastic knobs on the tuners are still there after all these years. Forget about playing in tune with others as well, the non compensated bar bridges were usually off enough to be irritating to anyone. This is a perfect guitar to retrofit aftermarket parts to. Nothing really worked well, and it gave me my first lessons in luthiery. Mine wound up being my second guitar as an open tuning for slide guitar till I traded it for some fuzz pedal. Pop open the pickups for a real surprise! :o

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 4:55 pm 
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Mahogany
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Location: Cornwall UK
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Thanks guys.
Maybe I should have said, it's only the pics that I've got, the guitar's still in the USA!!! It's a friend of mine who wants to get it working again.
Any wiring drawings or diagrams I can send over would be really helpful for her.

Patrick---I can't pop the pups, what's the surprise????

Cheers.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:31 pm 
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Walnut
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Those outside screws that go all the way through the top of the covers to the back should pop it. But in case you didn't want to...it doesn't actually have coil wire,as such. When I popped mine open it had the wires soldered to a copper strip wrapped around the pole pieces.
Someone down the street had given me a Tiesco body with the pickups still in it and with a little move of the screws in the pickguard ,they fit.
Like I said, I began learning about guitar repair with that one.

If I ever run across one again, I would probably retrofit a buncha GFS hardware and pickups and use it for an open tuning for slide. I'm just kinda sentimental that way.

As for schematics, there isn't any special wiring exclusive to this guitar, just about any two switch, two single coil diagram on the net would do the trick. dpdt (double pole double throw off-on)switches for original wiring. dptt (double pole triple throw on-off-on )for wiring like a Fender Mustang with the out of phase feature. The good thing about a low rent axe is you don't end up feeling bad about screwin up a mod because you can just start over again and customize your brains out with it. Theyre perfect to try other hardware out on. Put custom pickguards on, try out different paint jobs etc. I find guitars akin to them at the flea market $15-$30. I customed a similar guitar to fretless for a curious friend once. He still plays it.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 9:06 pm 
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Mahogany
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They have it right with the two slider switches.

FWIW: It looks like an old Teisco to me. They were really inexpensive, but played well and had a LOT of character in the sound. Early Japanese imports before Ibanez dominated that particular market. The info on them isn't too hard to find if you decide to look for it.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 12:10 am 
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Walnut
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Teisco, Global, Kimberly, a few others, all came from the same factory and jigs. He mentioned 70s Sears, that tipped me off it was a Global.

Cort /Cor-tek make Ibanez, Schecter Fender and some others. Theres a big to do about that now. Seems the Korean factory screwed its workers out of wages and retirement and moved to Indonesia. Do a Youtube search for "Cort / Cor-tek". I may have picked that up in this forum somewhere.
"

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:52 am 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:06 am
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Location: Cornwall UK
First name: Steve
Last Name: Marsh
State: Cornwall
Country: United Kingdom
Status: Professional
Thanks for the info, I'll pass it on to her.

I get what you're saying about the slider switches, but I still need a pretty picture to wire 'em. One reason is I've got to send it through, and the other is------I'm still a bit dim about the 'lectrics side of things :oops: The woodwork and everything else is fine, but I've only recently got into the wiring side. Collecting quite a few diagrams as I need them, and learning as I go on, but I can't find how to do this combo anywhere. I've tried Seymore Duncan and a couple of others, so any pointers in the right direction, or links, would be great.

Cheers.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 10:58 am 
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Walnut
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For the Mustang wiring I mentioned with dpdt switches look here http://www.jag-stang.com/faq/mustang/fe ... g-diagram/
This is recommended since it gives a funky sound feature to an otherwise ordinary guitar.
Tiesco two pickup two switch wiring http://www.guitarsite.com/hotlicks/about3862.html

Theres a lot to be gained from shielding the electronics cavity and back of the pickguard with some aluminum ducting tape because these hum like a waystation most of the time. This is easy to google for further instructions or possibly on this site somewhere.

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