Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Thu Apr 24, 2025 6:36 pm


All times are UTC - 5 hours





Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 1:16 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 2:41 am
Posts: 457
Location: United States
Hi all...I was just wanting to get an opinion here of which neck joining method people prefer/use. I saw in an earlier thread that the bolt-on was best/easiest when it came to neck resets in the future. But was wondering peoples opinions.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 1:33 am 
Offline
Site Admin
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 5:02 am
Posts: 8553
Location: United States
First name: Lance
Last Name: Kragenbrink
City: Vandercook Lake
State: Michigan
Zip/Postal Code: 49203
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
I started with the Dovetail on my first 3 guitars, I switched to the M&T for all since. Im considering giving John Mayes method a try, so the neck is completly bolted on - no glue.

_________________
Support the OLF! Bookmark our STEWMAC link Today!
Lance@LuthiersForum.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 1:36 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 4:05 am
Posts: 749
Location: Canada
My first was a dovetail, then I went with a Mortise and tenion Bolt on, now I am doing a Straigt but joint bolt on, Wouldn't go back.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 1:52 am 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
I too started with dovetail(5 this way), now M&T bolt-on no glue (20 this way)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 1:58 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2005 3:20 pm
Posts: 632
Location: United States
I have a question for John Mayes and others as well. I was looking through the Cumpiano book for the 100th time and noticed that when making the cut for the heel and MT fit, he recommends cutting an angle of 5 degrees when cutting into the side of the tenion.

John Mayes - BTW - I am a big fan of your DVD's and bought them all so far. Wateched them a couple of times and good value for the money. Now for my question. It seems that you do not cut the tenion sides at an angle. Am I right?? Do you then do some adjusting with a chisel to create a slight angle so the contact is tight to the body??

Thanks all - really appreciate this form - has been a great contribution to my never ending quest to learn!!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 4:27 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2005 5:49 pm
Posts: 2915
Location: Norway
One thing to consider is the size of your heel. I make my heels really small, so I like the extra meat that the tenon behind it provides. I would be uneasy to make a straight heel bolt on as small as mine. For insurance I glue a maple piece in the tenon with the grain going opposite direction.

_________________
Rian Gitar og Mandolin


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 4:46 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 4:05 am
Posts: 749
Location: Canada
I put a piece of Dowling in the Heals of mine. I use a fairly small heal with but joint and haven't had problems yet.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 11:43 pm 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2005 3:20 pm
Posts: 632
Location: United States
Richard

Could you clarify or even post a pic? If I understand your approach, you dowel the neck heel to the neck block instead of dovtail or MT approach. So the heel glues directly to the sides. With that approach you probably go for a very flat surface on the neck heel - is this correct?

Does anyone else use this approach? Seems like it would be a whole lot easier and quicker than doing MT or dovetail.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:41 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2005 2:44 am
Posts: 987
Location: United States
First name: Joe
Last Name: Breault
City: Merrimack
State: NH
Status: Amateur
Ok, to add to this discussion, I am building a Martin kit right now. It has a MT bolt on neck. However, there is only one bolt. Do I need to use glue to re-enforce the joint or am I fine with just the one bolt?

_________________
Joe Breault
Merrimack, NH
Perpetual novice


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2005 3:45 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 3:14 am
Posts: 2590
Location: United States
One bolt works fine...on the first neck I used like that I glued the f/b extension only...but upon retrospect, I don't even think that was necessary!

_________________
http://www.presnallguitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2005 4:33 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 4:05 am
Posts: 749
Location: Canada
Rich. I wasn't very clear. I put a dowl in the Neck heel, drilled in from the bottom of the heel. This is just to give some cross grain for the bolt inserts to dig into.The neck itself is a but joint bolt on. Don't have any pictres of this but I'll probably have a neck I could take a picture of within a few days. The heel cap covers it at the bottom.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2005 4:54 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2004 1:57 pm
Posts: 211
Location: United States
Rich, the 5 degree cut to expose the tenon is really intended to simplify setting the neck angle. I use that method on all of my guitars. You generally wind up taking wood off of the bottom of the cheeks at the heel cap end. Cumpiano shows using a chisel for this but I found a block of wood with sandpaper stuck to it gives me more control. This method also is good for adjusting slight mis-alignments of the fretboard centerline and the center of the soundboard by selectively removing material from one side of the "cheek". One thing I do differently from Cumpiano is to glue the heel cap on after I set the neck angle. This prevents sanding an angle into the heelcap creating a gap between the heelcap and the bindings on the back.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com