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I was using my new safe-t planer and got some tear out near the top joint, that I would like to get rid of but the top is between .100 - .110 and Im hesitant to put a plane to it. Its only on one side. Is it acceptable to put this on the inside of the top or should I risk getting the top joint too thin?

Thanks,
Devin

Devin: It would be nice to see a picture. I gather this will not disappear with the sound hole.If you feel you have to use a plane to clean this up I would suggest you would make your top too thin. Depending on the size and depth and the location you may be able to put it on the inside. You may even be able to have it under the bridgeplate if it clears the bridge pin holes.I would tend to stay away from the lower bout from the plate to the end block. Again it DEPENDS DEPENDS...!

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Here is a link to the pic of the tear out. I had to zoom in close (used my phone to take the pic) so its hard to tell where it is from the pic. It's the lower bout but would not be covered up by the bridge.
http://www.devincox.com/images/tearout.jpg

Devin: It appears that there is not much depth and no sharp corners.If that is so and no braces pass through the mark,I would be inclined to leave it alone,put it on the inside and proceed with the build. Hopefully other folks will give you some more feedback.Hope it works out for you. Good luck.
Tom

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Thank you for the response Westca, I'm gonna flip the top. The tear out should be just outside the bridgeplate when completed.

Devin

I think I would avoid using a safety planer on a joined top, hand planing or sanding ids a lot safer. Turn the top over and carry on, learn from the experience.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
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Fred, are you saying you would use the safe-t planer on the top before joining or not at all?

thanks,
Devin

I think I would avoid it completely but then I have a drum sander that does the top thinning. I take my tops down to around .150 before joining then finish to thickness after. I have never used a safety planer as I bought the sander after my second build as hand tools were hard work and I am a lazy person who prefers a machine to do the work.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

I think, my next guitar will buy the tops closer to the final thickness and avoid the need for the safe-t planer on the top. (c:

Devin: Get yourself a hand plane. Softwood tops are relatively easy to work to accurate results with a plane. You should have one anyway for joining both top and back plates.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

Make sure your first go at it is on scrap. It's really easy to fall into a rhythm once you have the plane tweaked and you are spitting out curly ribbons and end up with a board that's too thin to use. It was a good way to get to know my plane.

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Aoibeann

Actually, I'm a plane addict, I have several. I used the planes on the top but it was slow going so I wanted to try the safe-t planer. I read on here about some people using it on their tops.

Devin

I wouldn't use a saf-t-planer anywhere near a top.

its a viscious cutter and badly named as I've spilled more blood from using the saf-t-planer than pretty much any other tool!

I sometimes use it for thicknessing headstocks but I don't like it at all!!

for tops I use a big old plane.

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Seconded.

Possibly a best solution is to locate someone or a shop, with a drum sander, and prep your tops that way. It really is the best and safest method of thinnessing your tops. I have also successfully used a plane, but I have built furniture by hand for many years and have a pretty good feel for hand tools.

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"Building guitars looks hard, but it's actually much harder than it looks." Tom Buck