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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 11:05 pm 
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Walnut
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Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 9:19 pm
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First name: Jeremy
Last Name: Illg
City: Eagan
State: MN
Zip/Postal Code: 55121
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Have any of you good folks applied nitro over brushed art, or know of anyone that has done so (point to a thread even). I have an artist friend that will paint my guitar, but I am concerned about how to finish it with the mentioned nitro.

Things to ponder:
1. What type of paint will allow the nitro to bond to it without future lifting (acrylic, oil-based..?).
2. How many coats need to be applied before any buffing.
3. What type of nitro/brand.
4. What grain filler will work with the paint.
5. Will paint effect the dry time of the nitro
6. Other

Any advice would be beyond appreciated!

New guy here. I did do a search but could not find a thread pertaining to this topic.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 11:33 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Sat May 22, 2010 10:32 am
Posts: 2616
First name: alan
Last Name: stassforth
City: Santa Rosa
State: ca
Zip/Postal Code: 95404
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
hi.
i would ask what kind of paint the artist is using?
the safest clear coat would be a water based finish.
nitro might eat up the paint the artist used.
is the artist brushing, or airbrushing?
brushing might leave ridges that might come through when polishing the clear coats.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 8:33 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:02 pm
Posts: 211
First name: Mark
Last Name: Thorpe
City: Valparaiso
State: Indiana
Focus: Build
I have signed items I have built with a paint pen, lacquer directly on the paint dissolved the paint, I had to seal the paint with shellac before applying the lacquer. The best thing for you to do is when your friend paints your guitar have him also paint a scrap piece of wood, use the scrap piece to determine the best course of action.

Good luck.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 1:00 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 9:19 pm
Posts: 4
First name: Jeremy
Last Name: Illg
City: Eagan
State: MN
Zip/Postal Code: 55121
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
No matter what I do, I will be doing trial attempts on scrap wood.

However, given the nature of finishing products, do you think any adverse effects/compatabiliy issues will be seen right away? Meaning, if I can get certain products to work together, and say all is good for amonth or so, one would think that things will be ok down the road, or could anyting still happen?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:08 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:02 pm
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First name: Mark
Last Name: Thorpe
City: Valparaiso
State: Indiana
Focus: Build
Anything can happen, but once the finish has cured I would think it would be okay. The only thing I could think of happening down the road is the finish may check. Only time will give the answer to that one. If it has a reaction with chemical incompatibility you will know right away.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:18 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 8:57 pm
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Location: 8.33±0.35 kpc from Galactic center, 20 light-years above the equatorial in the Sol System
First name: duh
Last Name: Padma
City: Professional Sawdust Maker
Focus: Build
do the whole thing in nitro, including the artwork.

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Audiences and dispensations on Thursdays ~ by appointment only.



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 6:58 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 9:19 pm
Posts: 4
First name: Jeremy
Last Name: Illg
City: Eagan
State: MN
Zip/Postal Code: 55121
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
PADMA - This may be a dumb question, but do they make nitro paints, or should I say Nitro with a colorant which can be brushed? Or do you do it yoursel, add the colorant that is. A rereanch product maybe. Seeing as it would be nitro based paint, I can't see it being to healthy for the artist.

This would be stellar and make things easier.

Also, kinda off topic, but does anyone know if the nitro of yesteryear can still be had.

Meaning, to my understanding, today's nitro differs in the fact it is made to react to eccelerants such as light and such, and in some cases not so far off from polywallydoddle finishes.

Is is also true that the nitro used in the 50s never fully cures and is always gassing off, even to present day.

I do realize that time makes a big difference, but when I play guitars of this time period, they DO feel different to the hands; a feeling I dig.

Thanks for all the advice, I greatly appreciate it.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:33 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 8:57 pm
Posts: 1982
Location: 8.33±0.35 kpc from Galactic center, 20 light-years above the equatorial in the Sol System
First name: duh
Last Name: Padma
City: Professional Sawdust Maker
Focus: Build
Japan colourants, or International Pigments....the stuff the squirt in the paint to tint it at the Paint stores. Take in your own small jars, usually around $2 an oz. depending on colour. Not all paint / hardwaire stores will sell it to you.

Mix it in with the lacquer.

Use out doors. or a very well ventilated area. paint in front of you like on an easil with a fan ove the left shoulder blowing away from you. Not over top like like sitting at a desk.

Camel hair brushes would be the best. As Alan said the brushing might leave ridges that might come through when polishing the clear coats.

The ultimate would be to take it to someone who airbrushes gas tanks for bikers, show them the pic or tell them what you want. Lay your bucks down along with your nitro.


blessings

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Audiences and dispensations on Thursdays ~ by appointment only.



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