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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 7:29 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:57 pm
Posts: 117
First name: John
Last Name: Neal
City: Arcadia
State: ok
Zip/Postal Code: 73007
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I'm building a LP style carved top and putting a Schaller roller brigde on it. It stands about 5/8" tall to the top of the rollers with it adjusted up about 1/32". How tall should I be looking for off the body at the bridge location along the top of the fretboard with a strait edge?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 8:43 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:11 pm
Posts: 352
Location: muncie IN
First name: shad
Last Name: peters
Focus: Build
you should be a little more clear with your question, i am not totally sure what you are asking, but my advice would be to draw it up. when the bridge is set at its absolute lowest you want the string to be just resting on the frets, that way you dont run out of adjustment when setting up. if you know the lowest height for the bridge and you know what you want your neck angle to be you should be able to determing how deep your neck pocket needs to be and how thick you want the heel to be and all that. i might be able to give a clearer answer if i knew a little better what you are asking.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 10:33 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:30 pm
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First name: Gabby
Last Name: Losch
City: Brookline
State: MA
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
http://www.tundraman.com/Guitars/NeckAngle/Index.cfm

Like Shad, I'm not exactly sure which piece of information you're looking for, but this might help.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 10:55 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Sat May 22, 2010 10:32 am
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First name: alan
Last Name: stassforth
City: Santa Rosa
State: ca
Zip/Postal Code: 95404
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
My advice,
draw it up.
I say that a lot!
You can erase pencil on paper when you make a mistake.
Much more forgiving than wood.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 10:13 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 11:37 pm
Posts: 1740
Location: Virginia, USA
Focus: Build
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alan stassforth wrote:
My advice,
draw it up.
I say that a lot!
You can erase pencil on paper when you make a mistake.
Much more forgiving than wood.

^^^^This is the method! Do a side view. You don't even have to make it very complicated.
What I do is draw a horizontal line that represents the neck from nut to heel. Underneath that, as far below it as my neck will protrude above the body, I draw another horizontal line that represents the body. Extend this line back toward the nut as far as your neck heel/tenon extends into the body. Mark where the bridge location(to scale length) is with a vertical line that represents the height of the saddles on the bridge at their lowest point. Then i go back to the nut and mark a vertical line as tall as the frets. Connect a line from the top of the nut to the top of the bridge. After that ,it's just a matter of measuring the distance from the top of the neck at the heel to the bottom of that line(which represents the strings), less the height of the frets. This gives me the fall off in fractions of an inch(or whatever measurement you choose to use) from the heel of the neck pocket to the edge of the guitar(back toward the nut). This is your neck angle. Instead of making a jig to route that angle in the neck pocket, or creating that angle on the heel of the neck, I take a hand plane and plane that angle into the top of the guitar, from just in front of the bridge, then route the mortise from there, which gives me a mortise with the same angle as the top.
I hope you can understand that. That's the best I can do in explaining it.

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