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Hello all does anyone out there use the Cumpiano free hand method of construction using a workboard, curious as to opinions of this method vs others, Thanks all Rob

I go one step further... complete freestanding assembly, no molds or workboards needed. The cork liner he uses is handy to keep the top from tipping around while you glue the sides to it, but even that isn't a necessity. And entirely unnecessary if you use a true flat top, as several great builders do.

I use spool clamps to glue on the back, rather than the rope method that requires an approximately guitar shaped workboard to wrap the rope around.

For the head/tail blocks, just sand them until they stand vertical when set in place on the arched surface of the top. The angle isn't critical since you can account for it when setting the neck. So, glue the blocks in place, then glue the sides to the blocks, and don't worry about gluing the whole edge to the top since that will be routed away for bindings anyway. Then go around gluing individual lining blocks with hot hide glue, holding the gap closed while you glue each block. Setting weights on the top edge to hold it down works well to keep the gap from springing back open while the glue fully dries... but make sure they're long enough to balance well, and not heavy enough to destroy the top if they do fall.

You could certainly build faster using radius dishes and solid molds with go-bars, but this way is fun and space-saving and very easy to make new shapes. My templates are all paper

Hi Roby; If your are using Cumpiano's book as a building guide, it'd be a good idea to check out his web site. There are many "new & improved" methods noted there.
To answer your question, there are lots of folks still using workboards similar to the ones described in William's book. Personally, I prefer using a rigid outside mold & radius dishes.

Just for FYI William Campaino converted to using assembly mold several years back. If you go to his web site he has or did have an article update on this fact. But it seems they have never updated printings of Tradition and Technology to reflect this.

I just took Cumpiano's course to supplement my techniques for repairs and building, spent two weeks in his shop building a guitar side by side with him.
William does not use an assembly mold, that information is false. He gave me several good reasons why he doesn't, and after going through his process, I quite frankly don't see the purpose in using a mold anymore either.
If anyone wants to know in his own words why he doesn't use a mold, e-mail him, he'd be happy to share his reasons with you.
Molds aren't bad, simply unnecesary. I don't even think they speed up production, either.

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Old growth, shmold growth!

Check with Bruce Sexauer at the Unofficial Martin Guitar Forum. He builds freehand and does a good job of it.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

I don't use a mold mostly because I bend my sides by hand. Sometimes the sides just don't bend exactly to fit a form. I guess you could squash it in with different sorts of spreaders and stuff. I'm just doing the Cumpiano way right now. There are some edits to the book too depending on what version you have. Check the website and update your book if you have too. Enjoy your first build!

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Jason Moe
LaCrosse WI 54601

It should be noted that Bill's method is derived from the centuries old Spanish way of building known as "Free Assembly". I've used this as well as the mold approach extensively over the years.
Combined with hot pipe bending, free assembly allows you to make whatever sizes and shapes you like without the time and expense of creating elaborate fixturing for each.
Most folks like a mold for accuracy of shape but if your bending skills are good it's not needed.

If you want to see a "mold-less" build check out this blog at Froggy Bottom Guitars. Mike Millard and his staff are ridiculously talented builders!

http://froggybottomguitars.com/guitars/the-sj-blog.html

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Guitar Building = Continuous Improvement Process

I have a hard time imagining how to get the top of the side precisely level (or contoured) that way. Dragging a flat piece with sandpaper attached to it probably isn't going to work like that. I guess, with skill, you learn to wing it with a plane.

Why not use a traditional solera workboard with the adjustable rim supports. That gives you all the flexibility you need plus the ability to hold the rim in place readily.

I had some questions with the Cumpiano techniques when I reached that point of the build also. Not trusting my own skills I set up some parameters for how much to take off and how to keep things level. If you feel unsure of your skills to keep it level and even, make sure you know how much you plan to take off on the sides and both the front and rear blocks. The issue of the sanding board ended up not really much of a concern because you remove so little material with each pass that as long as you are careful and stay within your set parameters, you will be fine. I am going to experiment sometime in the future with a radius dish, but I am not sure it is really much of an improvement. However, I would like to know that empirically and not speculate out of ignorance. I do that enough as it is. Patience and careful attention to detail will always be your most important factors no matter what methods you decide to use.

I am having a blast building and hope the same for you..