Official Luthiers Forum!

Hello everyone.

I haven't posted in a while. Been busy setting up my shop, doing all the repair work and some prototyping as well (shameless plug: the website has been online for almost a year now - http://www.afinasounaoafinas.com - you can check the blog too).

Anyway, I've found an useful link about table saw issues and safety procedures. I realize it's a common subject, but I guess it's always good to have these links floating around, for the occasional lurker.

http://www.waterfront-woods.com/Article ... blesaw.htm

Cheers,
Celso

Wow that is a great article on the table saw. I will certainly use that in the future when I introduce students to the tool. We have had some conversation here in the past on push sticks, the concensus was that the "push shoe" linked to on the bottom of the page is much safer. Thanks for the link.
Rob

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I was going to comment but I decided to let it go. I will say I strongly disagree with some of his statements.
L

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I would say it is a fairly comprehensive overview of tablesaw safety, and one well worth reading by novice saw users.

I wouldn't "strongly" disagree with any of his statements.

I very strongly agree with his observation about the difference between "respect" and "fear".

I would dispute his assertion that thin kerf blades should not be used in cabinet saws for ripping, (has he not heard of blade stabilizers?) and he also fails to point out that when ripping solid lumber, the fence should not extend in front of the center line of the saw blade, whereas when cutting sheet goods, it should extend equidistantly on either side of the center line.

That's assuming you have an adjustable fence, of course. If you don't then you should mount an auxiliary fence for ripping solid lumber..

Other than that, a good article.

EDIT: just read his article about using a "push shoe" instead of a push stick. Now that, I do strongly disagree with. A properly made push stick, preferably made of 1/2" birch ply, is far safer and will keep your fingers out of danger. As far as keeping the workpiece down to the table, that is why you fabricate featherboards which can be attached to the fence (or use commercially available anti kick-back pawls ).

Seems like a fair amount of gibberish in this article...
According to his theories on blade height, for instance, one would have to assume that you can't safely make dado cuts on the table saw...
His preference for the push "shoe" over the push "stick" seems a little narrow minded; they are different tools to be used in different circumstances. It disturbs me more than a little that he recommends greater blade height AND the push shoe in the same breath.
Also, I can't imagine a meaningful discussion of table saw safety with no mention of blade guards and/or splitters/riving knives. I know not everyone believes in blade guards; I use one whenever it does not interfere with the cut. I remove it- and use as low a blade setting as possible- when ripping narrow strips or (obviously) when making non-through cuts like dadoes. The thing with the blade guard is that you have to know when to remove it. Since the blade guard on my saw also acts as a splitter and has anti-kickback pawls, I feel it is a great safety feature.
Since I am a guitar player 1st and a woodworker/luthier 2nd, protecting my hands in the shop is of paramount importance.
The best advice given in this article is to read the owner's manual!
Perhaps if you are new to table saws it might behoove you check out some other articles on shop safety in woodworking magazines etc.
regards
pvg

I don't entirely agree with the underpowered saw and kickback. I understand his point but I had a light saw, I could stop, and also a 3HP that nothing would stop. The latter might cause fewer kickbacks, his point, but it sure is more attention getting when it happens.

The best safety advice I ever got was to PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT YOU ARE DOING. I don't use a blade guard on my table saw, it was the first thing I tore off of it when I bought it. However, I always adjust my blade height to the piece I'm cutting, and while I'm making a cut, I PAY ATTENTION to the cut, I don't look away, and that machine has all the respect something that could end my guitar making/playing forever deserves. I nicked myself once on the tablesaw. The blade touched my thumb nail, and cut a 1/8th inch slot right on the bottom of it. I happened to see a piece of bracing wood falling off the table from the saw vibrations, I glanced over at it, and glanced back to see my fingernail get whacked. That was all I needed to pay attention. No one who is missing a thumb cares about the wood that fell off the table.

Also, a push stick when used well with a feather board is a safe item when used right...like everything else it has to be used right.

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Olá Celso!
I´ll read the article in my search for saw-enlightenment. thanks for posting.

um abraço,
Miguel.

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[quote="murrmac" also fails to point out that when ripping solid lumber, the fence should not extend in front of the center line of the saw blade, whereas when cutting sheet goods, it should extend equidistantly on either side of the center line.

That's assuming you have an adjustable fence, of course. If you don't then you should mount an auxiliary fence for ripping solid lumber..[/quote]

I've been using tablesaws with solid front to back fences for 45 years. I missed that memo.

Solid timber (especially tropical) can contain inbuilt stresses which, when released can cause kickback. Sheet goods don't contain such stresses.

Using an auxiliary fence which only comes to halfway to the blade center negates the kickback dangers.