Official Luthiers Forum!

Just watching a john bogdanovich video , where he sprays a classical guitar with a 2 part conversion varnish. I notice he uses a large explosion proof exhaust fan, coupled with a gravity feed gun , and large HVLP system. This would be quite a large cash outlay . For years I have used , shellac , cabinetmakers varnish , sprayed laquer, brushed oil. and other low tech finishing systems. My question is , is it really worth it ?? . I realize there are advantages , fast cure time , especially with an epoxy filler underneath. What do you think ???

What do I think?
Well, I'll tell you.
Hvlp=good!
Exhaust fan=good!
Conversion varnish=probably good!
Cost?
A lot.
I'm using more hand tools,
and will probably end up french polishing soon.
Why?
because I don't want to spend a lot of money,
and,
I like doing it the old way.

Well, what does the conversion varnish bring to the table for you or your customer, I'd bet the customer doesn't really care or would prefer nitro or french polish depending on the guitar . If your after speed, your not going to beat a UV cure lacquer, ask Bob Taylor or Jean Larrivee.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Jim,
Don't you mean UV cured "polyester"? Last I knew that's what Taylor was using but they certainly could have changed formulations though I am not aware of a UV cured lacquer.

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Yeah, I'd probably go with the UV cure stuff if I was going to shell out that kind of cash. Pat Hawley has been working with the cureUV.com setup, which looks great: http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=30422 http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=31371

I have used a two part conversion varnish made by ML Campbell on cabinets for a few years now. I think it would work well on instruments provided you can spray it effectively. The stuff is tuff as nails when cured. It is a high solids material and two coats will usually yield about 4-6 mils dry build. really don't want to go past three coats or crazing can become a problem. Major drawback is touch ups, after about 5-6 hrs of cure at 70 degrees anything you put over top will no longer crosslink and therefore not bond to the finish underneath. This means sanding out and re coating an entire back, rim or soundboard if a touch up s needed. But as I said, the stuff is tough and very difficult to scratch. Incredibly chemical resistant as well, it laughs at acetone. Don't know how well it buffs out either as we don't buff cabinetry, and most of what we use has a much lower sheen than most would want on an instrument, though full gloss is available. As with anything, better equipment equals a better job with less effort. I am using an Apollo HVLP turbine system. Once you get the right reduction/retarder package worked out for your environment it sprays and flows nice. Vapors are a serious fire and health hazard though. Full body suit recommended, it will make any exposed skin very irritated. Good ventilation is a must, and depending on how often you spray and how close your neighbors are, they might not like you so much.
Brian

_________________
Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

thanks for explaining the pros and cons , appreciate it. You guys are right.It would definitely be a big investment $$