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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:40 am 
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Mahogany
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First name: jeff
Last Name: scott
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State: new brusnwick
Zip/Postal Code: e2e 2e2
Country: Canada
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Hello all,

I just started to apply a radius block and sandpaper to my fretboard this morning ... first time build too.

Maple is hard stuff to sand. :o

Just wondering if I should cut the dimensions of the fingerboard first before sanding. Right now it is still a rectangular blank. It would seem there would be less sanding if I cut the fretboard first.

** just another note. I am taking all my measurements off a Les Paul Standard. This has binding on the fretboard. I won't be doing binding, so should I include the width of both bindings in my fretboard?

Thanks again ...


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:02 am 
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First name: Chris
Last Name: Pile
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Quote:
Maple is hard stuff to sand. :o


Try purpleheart sometime for some real fun.


Quote:
This has binding on the fretboard. I won't be doing binding, so should I include the width of both bindings in my fretboard?


I would.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:07 am 
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Cocobolo
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I did mine after it was cut to width and glued on. You ought to try Ipe for real fun and games.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:55 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I have my necks fully shaped before I radius the fretboard to ensure that the fret plane is as regular as can be, sometimes the wood can move some after the back profile is shaped.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:54 pm 
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Koa
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City: Tucson
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Hand planes are good for roughing it out beehive


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 3:48 pm 
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Koa
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I'm a little late to this party, but I'll chime in anyhow. Radiusing the fingerboard is one of the last things I do to the neck, typically the last thing I do before gluing in the neck. I don't have any deep reason for doing it like this other than I like to keep things flat and square for as long as I possibly can. For me, building a guitar is an exercise in doing very simple operations in the right order because once a straight line is gone it's gone forever. I can't tell you how many times I've wished for a straight line I ended up shaping away, so just on general principle I keep it as square as I can for as long as I can unless I have a really good reason not to.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:10 pm 
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First name: Chris
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I don't have any deep reason for doing it like this other than I like to keep things flat and square for as long as I possibly can. For me, building a guitar is an exercise in doing very simple operations in the right order because once a straight line is gone it's gone forever.


^^^^^This is wise stuff, John.^^^^^

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 11:33 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 11:37 pm
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Location: Virginia, USA
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John Coloccia wrote:
I can't tell you how many times I've wished for a straight line I ended up shaping away, so just on general principle I keep it as square as I can for as long as I can unless I have a really good reason not to.


I'm kinda in this camp, too. One of the reasons I wait until after the frets are installed before shaping the neck. I rout for the truss rod, install it, then attach the shaped and radiused fretboard to the neck blank. I like the thick neck blank with a flat surface behind the fretboard. It doesn't require a neck rest, and it is rock solid when hammering in the frets. I also think it helps avoid back bow from compression when fretting. After fretting, i shape the neck and glue it in.

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