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http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_ta ... es#details

Just did a string through body bridge, and the ferrules in the back aren't perfect, which bugs the hell out of me, and I dont like tune-o-matics or tremolos (dont like putting a neck angle on a guitar, don't like the feel of an angled neck, and tremolo's, while easy to do, they go out of tune too quick, and I've used them all, PRS, Schaller, Floyd Rose, Fender, etc.... and I have yet to find one that doesn't go out of tune with use)
Anyway, looking at these, I like the top loading feature, along with the roller bridge and the fact I wouldn't have to angle a neck, just wondering if anyone has used them and how they like them?

Used to retrofit fit them to hardtail Strats and custom stuff all the time back in the day.
Hard to beat German stuff.

On the roller saddles... I used to set my string spacing, and then lightly paint the screw on each side of the saddle with clear nailpolish. Kept the rollers from moving during string changes. It can be adjusted with a drop of thinner or acetone to the nail polish in the future, or if you force the roller, the polish will simply pop off.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Yep, been there done that too. I have a couple that have the ferrules, and like the concept, but getting the things drilled at perfect spacing is a real b . . . . I'd like to see some suggestions from others on how to be more accurate in this process

And, so as to not hijack your thread, I have not used this kind of bridge, but, like CP says, it's hard to beat the German-made stuff.

I have this bridge on my cocobolo guitar: http://sorrentinoguitars.wordpress.com/ ... ng-coco-2/ Very nice bridge. Says in tune well, has a good feel. Schaller makes good bridges.

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http://www.tinyhouseandland.com

regarding ferrule spacings, i used a through-body bridge plate as a template, got a bit that was the same size as the six holes in the bridge plate, and used the bridge plate as a guide to drill out a template(in ebony) for ferrules. i only used it once but it seems to work well with a drill press. the ebony template won't hold up forever though

Is the problem with layout or drilling? Traditional split point bits can be difficult to get started accurately even when using a drill press.

I've had good luck drilling acoustic bridges with a brad point bit. A decent brad point, not a no name import from Harbor Freight.

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

If your problem with the string-through holes is alignment front to back, then check out post #60 on this thread. He started by setting his string spacing on the front of the guitar and then drilling 1/8" holes from the front.

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/2011-tdpri-t ... ead-2.html

I've used them and I like them.

I made a gauge after setting spacing to include
with the guitars so the owners could check and
reset if needed.

No complaints and will use them again.
Quality and no interference while playing. (feels good)

first reply attempt didn't show-up

For what it's worth. When I drill the holes for my string axes, I use the bridge as a guide. Set the drill press speed high to almost burn thru the wood. That prevents the bit from going astray when it tries to follow the wood grain.

Try it on some scrap to see if it helps.

yep, been using these for almost 16 years now

Very high quality bridge, but of course they are built by a conservative company - schaller which means that they only come in 6 string...

but nothing beats Hipshot, I only use Hipshot now, I am addicted....





I also built this guitar for Satriani in 1998 and I fitted a 3D-6


another one...


also fitted a 3D-6 on this blue V that you can see in this video on the solo part...





more pics of others I have built in the past with that bridge...

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http://hufschmidguitars.com

I was looking at hipshots, but since they aren't top loaders, I'm going to have to forego them. Until I can come up with a system to reliably drill the string thru body holes perfect, I'm not going to mess with it. I can't churn out something that isn't spot on perfect, I scrapped the body I was working on yesterday.

I thought about it, but I dont want anything out there with my name on it that someone could come back and say "He didn't build this right and tried to cover it up." One negative comment like that, with proof, can ruin you in terms of credibility, so taking 3 hours redoing the body is a lot easier than trying to do months or years of damage control. All my screwups inevitably go into the fireplace honestly. I mean sometimes there are minor mistakes that can be fixed without anyone ever knowing, and I am fine with that, but glaringly obvious things like this just have to be done over.

Kind of like that one guy that charged that kid something like 1500.00 for a guitar that he routed on his CNC, with a neck pickup route that the customer didn't ever order or want, then he filled the neck pickup cavity with putty, painted it over, and sent it to the guy, then the finish sank and the kid saw what he did, and posted it on here, I'm not going to name the builders name, but I can guarantee you that wasn't the only forum the customer posted on, and can almost promise that probably hurt his small time business a great deal.

Would it hurt your reputation as much as having the word "sux" appended to the end of your name ? :p

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Jim Hansen

Thanks, Roger, this does help. Not so much a problem with alignment front to back as it is getting spot-on spacing.


Kevin, I don't think it's layout. I can generally get the layouts to look right, but when I have finished drilling and put in the ferruls, there is inevitably a small difference in spacing on one or two. I am using a very good brad-point bit for this. I scrapped my cheepo Harbor Freight brad-point set after the first string through I did, thinking there was too much runout on the bits. The set I have now is a high quality set, and I did get my later attempts more accurate, but to say they are perfect would be a bit untrue.

...i have noticed this, and i have concluded that the human eye/brain is very very finely tuned to see minute differences between circular shapes in close proximity to one another. i suspect it has to do with evolution, and selecting the best/biggest fruits and nuts....i am serious!
but yeah, it seems that even a split second, cursory glance can detect if a string ferrule is 0.03mm out of whack with the others !

A VERY GOOD solution to this problem, IF YOU KNOW YOU ARE DRILLING IN A STRAIGHT LINE TO BEGIN WITH...is to use a flat endmill instead of a drill to produce the hole. A flat endmill will not walk if the cut is made very slowly. The reason for this is that an endmill establishes the perimeter of the hole with the sharp corners of the bit...in contrast...a drill uses the center of the tip. As a drill encounters variations in density, as is the case with wood grain, it will want to walk to the softer media. The endmill, however, will cut through hard and soft material alike if allowed to dwell for a few revolutions in that area.

Any time I have long holes with small diameters I use an endlmill to cut them. Although the cnc machine is reliable to place to hole perfectly, a drill bit will STILL walk as it cuts because of the wood grain. Walking puts a side load on the bit and that augers out the hole. Using an endmill, and setting up the cut so the bit dwells in place for a few seconds for each .1" depth....makes STRAIGHT holes that STAY straight all the way through.

If you use a drill press to make ferrule holes, and you devise a method to drill the holes so they line up straight, using an endmill with your drill press will guarantee that they don't auger out....if you are patient when drilling and let the endmill do the work.

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

How about making a guide out of 1/2" thick plywood first?
Make several, until you get a perfect one, then locate it on the git,
and drill through that.
I did that with a trem bridge with posts,
and it came out poifect.
I'll try your method someday, Zlurgh.