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The other day I glued my crossbrace on my top using hide glue. I have a little kettle like Sylvan Wells and had my glue in a jar and clipped to the side of the kettle. Water temp (glue temp) was 145 degrees. I used a disposable brush to apply the glue to the bottom of the cross but by the time I had the two legs completed I think that the my starting point cooled too much. The cross is now on and I have shaped it on the top so I know that it is on there well but there is a gap on the outer edge of the first leg. I can lift it enough and shoot some glue in there with a needle so the fix is not a problem.

My question is is a cross brace, pre-glued into a cross, too large to glue down all at once with hot hide glue? If not, what is the best way to get this thing in place before the glue cools?

Thanks

Shane

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Canada

That's the way I do it but I warm the brace and soundboard with a hair dryer before I apply the glue, I always like to glue warm components when using HH glue. May not be neccessary but I feel happier.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Keeping in mind I've yet to actually use any hide glue: Mario's reccomendation of using a stainless steel bolt/nut/bit of metal in a small dispensing bottle filled with glue (a heat sink, essentially, holding on to the heat when the bottle's out, about and in use) seems like a good idea.

Bit of hair dryer action sounds good too. I figure if some people can glue tops and backs on in one shot, braces shouldn't present too much trouble...

   I use a heat lamp and in a sense it is the same as a hair dryer thing without the air drying things down.

The bottle makes all the difference in the world. The glue is apllied much, much more quickly than with a brush.

For your other question, pre-heat the area with a hair dryer. Boil some water, dip a clean brush into it, and work the hot water where the brace isn't seated, working the brush and hot water while your free hand works the braces up and down. Once it starts to move and you can see the gap close completely, clamp 'er up....

Once clamped, take the hair dryer and dry the area that is now pretty wet. Hold the dryer at around 12" from the surface, and let the soft, warm air dry the wood...

Thanks for this,

Mario, I tried a bottle but this high clarity stuff is very thin, I mixed at 1.85 to 1. I can try that again and I just may. I will also try to fix the end up as you have said.

Thanks again!

Shane

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Canada

Never mind the mix ratios, and mix it until it is right. If it's thin, add some glue <bg>

Every glue is different. That's the advantage of buying in large quantities; once you have it figured out, you're set to go for a long time.

Rule of thumb for me is that I tip the bottle, and it just runs out on its own and lays a nice bead; not so thin that it comes out fast enough to make a mess, not so thick that that I need to squeeze. Just enough....