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 Post subject: Fingerboard thicknesses
PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 5:21 pm 
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Koa
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Is there an industry standard as to how thick the fingerboard should be before putting on a radius - trying to set up my template pin on a shooting board to start slotting these these with a template from SM and wondered where you all have the thickness before doing so - I know putting a radius on there will bring this down slightly - just want enough room - excited to slot these on the table saw as opposed to the Japanese fret saw/ miter box which has been taking it's toll on my hands! I need to get this measurment to keep a "standard size" in my shop from here on out.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 6:01 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 6:40 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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3/16ths or 1/4 inches, either one. Most custom guys use 1/4 inch.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:36 pm 
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Thanks guys - that's what I had for my calculations and it looked like it would be 1/8" deep slot cut into the 1/4" board for the fret slots, which should fit the tang nicely after the 12" radius.

All in favor?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:41 pm 
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If your fretboard is 2.25 inches at the end, you will need to add 1/16th of an inch to the depth of the fret tang, which can vary. I measured a large fret and the tang was a little over 1/16. You may also want to add a hair to account for final sanding and/or inlaying and then sanding. I would say a slot depth of 5/64ths should be sufficient. You can always add depth if you need it, though.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:35 am 
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Aye.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:03 am 
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So, what do any of you do when you use the SM template with saw on the table saw to do your fret slots? Any formula? How deep are you all sawing the fret slots? I realize that they have to go deeper the farther up the fingerboard, but is this generally done by hand?
I'm looking at a way to streamline this a bit more - what do you think SM does?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:13 am 
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I had heard a "certain" manufacturer of guitars simply went a little deeper and filled the extra bit of hole with CA.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 2:12 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Well, most manufacturers slot them a hair deeper and fill the ends, with wood filler or CA. It's the fastest way.

If you want your slots to be exact depth, you can saw the slots on the tablesaw a little shallow, and use the depth stop on the StewMac fret slotting saw to set the final depth after sanding and radiusing, set exactly to the depth of the tang. Then it won't matter, they'll all be the same depth up the whole length of the neck. I used to do that on every neck, but frankly, I don't think the tone is affected if the fret slots are a little deeper than the fret tang.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:37 am 
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This is why I'm glad I've got a radial arm saw. I can radius first and then cut my fret slots beehive :D

I'd probably do like guitar whisperer said. Cut just shy and then finish by hand after radiusing. It won't be as streamlined as you want, but you'll get some great results


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:58 am 
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ACK! You YOUNG whipersnappers with your radial arm saws!

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:45 am 
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theguitarwhisperer wrote:
If your fretboard is 2.25 inches at the end, you will need to add 1/16th of an inch to the depth of the fret tang, which can vary. I measured a large fret and the tang was a little over 1/16. You may also want to add a hair to account for final sanding and/or inlaying and then sanding. I would say a slot depth of 5/64ths should be sufficient. You can always add depth if you need it, though.


What makes you think he is going to do any inlay work on the fretboard?

laughing6-hehe laughing6-hehe laughing6-hehe duh


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:53 am 
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alan stassforth wrote:
theguitarwhisperer wrote:
If your fretboard is 2.25 inches at the end, you will need to add 1/16th of an inch to the depth of the fret tang, which can vary. I measured a large fret and the tang was a little over 1/16. You may also want to add a hair to account for final sanding and/or inlaying and then sanding. I would say a slot depth of 5/64ths should be sufficient. You can always add depth if you need it, though.


What makes you think he is going to do any inlay work on the fretboard?

laughing6-hehe laughing6-hehe laughing6-hehe duh


I don't know Alan - I am planning on just putting ab dots on build #4! (And theguitarwhisperer offered to teach me how to put them in! laughing6-hehe )

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 6:42 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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VirgilGuitar wrote:
alan stassforth wrote:
theguitarwhisperer wrote:
If your fretboard is 2.25 inches at the end, you will need to add 1/16th of an inch to the depth of the fret tang, which can vary. I measured a large fret and the tang was a little over 1/16. You may also want to add a hair to account for final sanding and/or inlaying and then sanding. I would say a slot depth of 5/64ths should be sufficient. You can always add depth if you need it, though.


What makes you think he is going to do any inlay work on the fretboard?

laughing6-hehe laughing6-hehe laughing6-hehe duh


I don't know Alan - I am planning on just putting ab dots on build #4! (And theguitarwhisperer offered to teach me how to put them in! laughing6-hehe )


Yeah man, if you need help with your dots, just lemme know.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:00 pm 
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LMAO GW!

Actually, it's the simple things that screw me up!

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:36 pm 
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Don't laugh Virgil.
Try getting those stupid dots straight!!!!!!!!!!!!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:37 pm 
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alan stassforth wrote:
Don't laugh Virgil.
Try getting those stupid dots straight!!!!!!!!!!!!


I'll second that.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:51 pm 
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Getting the dots straight is no problem if you install them while the fret board is unprofiled.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:00 pm 
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Chameleon wrote:
alan stassforth wrote:
Don't laugh Virgil.
Try getting those stupid dots straight!!!!!!!!!!!!


I'll second that.



Who says I have to put my dots in straight?
{Insert evil laugh from Virgil here: :evil: laughing6-hehe :twisted: }


Image

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:09 pm 
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I have never looked into actually inserting these abalone dots into a fingerboard that I purchased from SM, but I will bet anyone that the following way would work, and would never be questioned by a customer:

On scrap piece of wood, double check brad point drill has correct size hole for inlay dot.
Locate centerpoint of fretboard.
Mark point with scribe (Pushing into the grain)
Set drill stop, so it doesn't go through fretboard.
Drill holes
Use sledgehammer to pound the crap out of the abalone shell to fit into hole
Smear a gallon or so of CA glue all over dots
Run the whole thing through my planer to level.
Any questions? Probably not.
Finished.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:22 pm 
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Questions?
Yes, I have one, um,,
oops, fergot what it was, dang!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:26 pm 
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Koa
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alan stassforth wrote:
Questions?
Yes, I have one, um,,
oops, fergot what it was, dang!

laughing6-hehe laughing6-hehe

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:03 am 
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Cocobolo
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VirgilGuitar wrote:
Chameleon wrote:
alan stassforth wrote:
Don't laugh Virgil.
Try getting those stupid dots straight!!!!!!!!!!!!


I'll second that.



Who says I have to put my dots in straight?
{Insert evil laugh from Virgil here: :evil: laughing6-hehe :twisted: }


Image


You know, i actually think that looks pretty cool.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:51 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I like a Forstner bit better than a brad point.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 12:19 pm 
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If a gallon is not enough you can thin it down with another half gallon or so of mixed epoxy. Make sure you cover the front and the back of the fretboard or you'll get Tone Seepage.

Also, don't forget to tape aluminum foil to the back of the fretboard before you glue it onto the neck, so you can protect the truss rod from harmful radiation from power lines.

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