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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:47 pm 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 9:38 am
Posts: 56
First name: Mike
Last Name: Hoenerhoff
City: Ann Arbor
State: MI
Zip/Postal Code: 48105
Country: USA
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
I'm looking to take that next step and get myself a band saw. I don't have the funds to buy one new, so I'm looking at the used market; craigslist, etc.

It seems that 12" band saws can be had for exremely reasonable prices, however the jump to a 14" saw is pretty steep. I realize the cutting depth is also pretty important.

So how much band saw in enough? Any suggestions on models that are a good pickup used? Thanks.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:07 pm 
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Koa
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First name: Mark
Last Name: Sorrentino
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I wanna say mine is a Ryobi 10 inch. My friend gave it to me cause they didn't ever use it. Gets the job done.

You should be able to do fine with a small bandsaw, unless you're doing some really big projects or high production.

Craigs list is the way to go. That's where most of my tools are from.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:19 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Mon May 05, 2008 3:58 pm
Posts: 429
Location: Cottonwood, California USA
First name: Darrin
Last Name: Oilar
City: Cottonwood
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 96022
Focus: Build
I would get the biggest one you can afford. I had a 14" Jet with a riser block, and I'm sure it would have done well for nearly any task outside of serious resawing. I sold it and bought a Grizzly 19", and it's a completely different world. I also have a little 3 wheel Delta bandsaw that was given to me that I think will be handy to have around. If I can get it set up to cut well, it is a very thin kerf and would be nice for doing a lot of work without having to change blades on the bigger saw.

It is a buyers market right now. Be patient, do your research and you can get a good saw at a great price on the used market. Make sure you look the saw over and see if it seems to operate smoothly. Most things can be fixed, but that adds time and money to the equation.

I am a big fan of older machinery. My 1969 Unisaw probably will never depreciate. I could sell it for what I paid for it. Same thing with my old Crescent jointer. So if you can find an old bandsaw and don't mind a restoration, if needed, you can get a fantastic piece of machinery for rock bottom prices, and you can always get your money out of it. I waited and waited for an old bandsaw, but just never had one locally.

Darrin


Last edited by Darrin D Oilar on Mon Feb 06, 2012 4:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:55 pm 
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Koa
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First name: Mark
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Status: Amateur
Good advice. I've been feeling that a better saw would be good for me. When I browse the woodcraft magazines and the like, I just think, I can definitely get a good quality saw for a better price than this.

Quality tools really do make a difference.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 3:10 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2010 4:49 pm
Posts: 365
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Check craigslist. I picked up my jet 14" with a riser kit and a ton of timberwolf blades for 350$. Had new tires put on it and everything, it was a really good deal.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:05 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:08 pm
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First name: Patrick
Last Name: Hanna
State: Missouri
Country: USA
Mike, I think it all depends on what you want to do with the saw. Your post mentions depth of cut, and that suggests you're thinking about resawing. If you want to resaw your own backs and sides along with other chores, you really do need the biggest, best quality saw you can afford. Try to find one with a beefy motor, too--I'd say at least 1 hp. Everything I read tells me that the saw's ability to properly tension a resaw blade is very important, too. Condition of guide blocks, etc., is important. So, if you buy an older saw and if it has not been well-maintained, you might need to change the tensioning spring and do some other upgrades. But these things are not the end of the world and you can do them. On the other hand, if you're buying sets already sawn, and you think you'll use your bandsaw for much smaller, easier tasks, you can get away with a relatively small saw for now. With a little luck, you'll eventually have a bigger one and a smaller one, and you can task them for different operations. It's pretty sweet if you can get to that point--fewer blade changes, etc. I'm still working with a Craftsman 12" and it does normal tasks very well for me. But I'm fortunate to have a buddy with a 16" resaw when I want to do that sort of work. And I should add that I'm a hobby builder. I don't think a pro would ever settle for just one 12" bandsaw.

Patrick


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2010 11:44 am
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First name: Mark
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This is similar to Patrick's reply.
If you're getting a band saw for a few projects definitely find a 14" or bigger Delta/Jet/Grizzly/Rikon used band saw and find someone to do your occasional >6" resawing. If you are going to be doing lots of projects and plan to do Woodworking big time then get the biggest, heaviest most Italian or Austrian band saw you can. It is the powertool I use the most. Save up and buy a good one and be done with it. You will spend less and not loose sleep trying to figure out how to make that 14" do things it was not designed for. I and thousands of others have gone down the road of buying a 14" then adding a riser and then a more powerful motor and expensive guides and go through an arsenal of different blades. After all this still not be satisfied with the performance of their band saw. Then they take a 50%(or more) depreciation hit when they sell it all in frustration and then buy the bigger, heavier, better built band saw.

Look for a used MiniMax 16" or bigger, or Laguna 16 or bigger "HD" version. Laguna has 2 types of band saws. Get the one made in Italy. Also look for a Hammer (Austrian) or Agazanni, Steton, Centauro, ACM, Meber, or Griggio (all Italian). I have a MiniMax20 and got it used. Amazing difference between it and the 18" Rikon or the 14" Delta before it.

You may also want a also get a 10" 2 wheel band saw for scrolling with a narrow blade. Changing blades and positioning your guides for a different size blade is a big pain in the rear. Rikon makes a great small saw. Craftsman has the same exact saw (Model No.
351.214000). They go for <$100 on Craigslist.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:06 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 9:38 am
Posts: 56
First name: Mike
Last Name: Hoenerhoff
City: Ann Arbor
State: MI
Zip/Postal Code: 48105
Country: USA
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Thanks for the replies guys; very helpful and informative.

For the most part I'll be using it for small repair tasks, like making bridges, etc. I would like to also have the ability to cut templates for bodies, etc. Not sure if I'll be doing much in the way of resawing... what is the purpose of resawing other than to make veneers? I was more concerned with depth because I'd like to be able to cut a neck with a 1 piece heel. So that would require a few inches of clearance at least, no?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:37 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:08 pm
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Location: Missouri
First name: Patrick
Last Name: Hanna
State: Missouri
Country: USA
Yo, Mike,
I'd say what you are describing could be easily done with a smaller saw. I have been doing these kinds of tasks on my 12" saw (and it's not a sophisticated machine by any means, but it works great) for about 20 years. I also cut all the replacement ornamental rafter tails and post brackets for the front porch of my former house with this same saw. But I'll also say this: If you can find a 14" or larger saw for good money, go for it.

Lots of craftsmen do very amazing work with even smaller saws, but I think the overall quality seems to ratchet down with each decrease in wheel size. I've seen some guys turning out real nice little task work on three wheel, ten or twelve-inch bench top saws. But I'll say one more time: I don't think there are any pros out there who would consider anything less than a 14-inch saw.

I'm probably just adding to your confusion, and, if so, I apologize. Let's just go back to my first statement. Buy the biggest, best quality second hand saw you can afford. If you can't find big size at a price you can afford, then go for quality at each smaller wheel size, and you will be okay.

And I'll say one more thing, too: For trimming, simple scroll work, simple curved cuts, etc., the skill of the operator counts much more than the purchase price of the tool.

I'm pretty sure you are going to be okay on this thing. Best of luck to you!

Patrick


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:59 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:21 am
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First name: Virgil
Last Name: Mandanici
State: FL
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I was wearing the same shoes not long ago and was SO frustrated with the RBBSS (Really Bad Band Saw Syndrome). I threw all responsibilites out the window and took a deeper dive into credit card hell (WOOOHOOOOO!) and bought a 2HP (Horsepower rocks when you go beyond 1HP, especially when you were SO used to 1/3 HP) Grizzly 17".

I have been introduced into the wacky world of re-sawing, and I can actually dance quite well now:

bliss

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:01 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2010 4:49 pm
Posts: 365
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I did buy the re-saw guide for my jet 14" and it was a waste of money, I get better cuts free handing all my resawing as opposed to running it on my guide. The guide does well dont get me wrong, but I am satisfied with my free hand cuts.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 12:32 pm 
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First name: Kevin
Last Name: Looker
City: Worthington
State: OH
Zip/Postal Code: 43085
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In terms of finding a used one you can also look for school auctions. I think most if not all high schools have done away with wood shop classes.

I got an 18" Oliver 192 (made in Grand Rapids MI) at a school auction for $110 & I'll take it any day over my 14" USA Delta with riser block.

If you're into it, go to http://www.owwm.org & get familiar with the older saws like Oliver, Yates American, Northfield and Powermatic - the real Powermatic when they were built in Tennessee.

Kevin Looker

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:46 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:11 pm
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Location: muncie IN
First name: shad
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I suggest the biggest bandsaw you can afford. I have a 12 in and they are ok for some things but for most luthier work I find it pretty inadequate. If you can swing it get a 14" minimum I would say, and if you can bump that up to a 17" then do it.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:33 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 9:23 am
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First name: Corky
Last Name: Long
City: Mount Kisco
State: NY
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
You asked about purpose of resawing. That refers to cutting your own back and side sets from billets of lumber that you've purchased from lumberyards, or cut from trees in your area. Resawing is tough, requires a very well set-up bandsaw and size (and power) matters, as does the depth, kerf and teeth per inch of the blade. Lots of other good posts on these topics by those who really know what they're talking about. The issue is not only the height of the maximum cut (and fence) - do the math - Jumbo back, 16" at the lower bout, needs at least the ability to cut an 8" slice. That's a lot of cutting area, and requires a very effective saw. I've got a 17" bandsaw which I think is about right. 'Nuff said.

If you don't anticipate resawing, then you're probably good with a smaller saw.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 5:16 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Bigger is always better when it comes to bandsaws.


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