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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:40 pm 
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RogerC108 wrote:
John Coloccia wrote:
The only change is the carve vs. top, wood and the bridge, of course...



Of course they'll sound different. You've got one with a carved top vs one without, then you've changed the bridge. With those pretty strong differences, I can hardly see how you attribute any difference in sound to the wood.


I find it odd that you think changing from a carve top to a drop top is somehow significant, while the species and properties of the wood we're manipulating aren't. It would be like saying, "Be sure to put exactly 1 tsp of spice in the soup or it won't taste right".

"Which spice?"

"Oh, it doesn't matter..."

Are you guessing about the differences between a carve top and a drop top or have you built several examples of each, with the same wood, and compared them? I know you're guessing about the bridge differences because I haven't mentioned what bridges I used. I can tell you that I've built a mahogany/spruce carve top that I didn't like, because it was a bit brighter than I wanted (hence, experimenting with alder, and if that didn't work, I would have tried something else). Early early on, I built an alder with a FLAT cedar top, believe it or not, mainly because it was quick and easy to build....it was just an experiment. That was actually quite similar to the alder/spruce one I have now, even though it was an entirely different shape, chambering pattern and top...and that got me going down this path.

I'm just reporting my own experiences. I couldn't tell you exactly what's affecting what, and as I mentioned previously I do worry that one day I'll follow the recipe and it will all just stop working for reasons which I don't understand, and hence can't fix.

I don't personally believe (and this is a guess) that a certain wood sounds a certain way, but I do believe that once you fix it into a specific form, changing species is a knob you can turn to gently nudge the timbre this way and that way in a somewhat predictable, or at least repeatable, way.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:08 pm 
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This has been an interesting thread. I have only one thing to add. You guys should top building electrics and build acoustics. Nobody ever argues about what the wood does to acoustic guitars! beehive

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:21 pm 
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John Coloccia wrote:
RogerC108 wrote:
John Coloccia wrote:
The only change is the carve vs. top, wood and the bridge, of course...



Of course they'll sound different. You've got one with a carved top vs one without, then you've changed the bridge. With those pretty strong differences, I can hardly see how you attribute any difference in sound to the wood.


I find it odd that you think changing from a carve top to a drop top is somehow significant, while the species and properties of the wood we're manipulating aren't. It would be like saying, "Be sure to put exactly 1 tsp of spice in the soup or it won't taste right".

"Which spice?"

"Oh, it doesn't matter..."



Actually, it's nothing like that. In fact what I said was that you changed way more than just wood choice and are now saying that it was the wood choice that caused the difference. So it's like saying, "I made the soup the exact same way. I just changed ALL the spices and now it tastes different, so it must have been the cumin."

You're right, John, I've not yet built several examples of each and compared them. That's one of my goals this year though (read my post earlier in the thread to get an idea of what I'm after). But you don't need to be a seasoned builder to understand that when you change that many variables at once, it's difficult to attribute a singular aspect to a singular factor.

I will admit, too, that I've somewhat swung to the opposite side of the spectrum in this argument. I think it was a strong reaction to hearing so many people worship at the alter of tone woods with only marketing and anecdotal evidence to support their claim. All that matters in the end is the knowledge you gain by building and experimenting. If you can come up with a recipe and can reasonably predict what the outcome is going to be, then you'll be much farther ahead. [:Y:] pizza


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 12:33 pm 
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Well, it turns out that one guitar wasn't really fretting out that badly at all....it was on the edge when he really dug in, but a very minor tweak took care of that. The OTHER one, with the Schaller roller bridge, was nightmarish....it turns out at the high E string had popped out of the slot in the roller. I had the low E pop out once but only when I was playing aggressive finger style. Once that was back in the slot, everything was fine again. He had it pop out again when he was playing with it at his house, so I took it back to rip it out and replace it with a nice, Gotoh hardtail bridge. It's really a shame because the Schaller is so beautifully made but is clearly not what I would consider road worthy.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 12:53 pm 
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Ever get the strange feeling that someone posted a comment on the wrong thread, or is it just me? :o

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 1:32 pm 
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John Coloccia wrote:
Well, as expected, the alder/spruce guitar was a bit warmer than the mahogany/maple guitar, but the whole thing was ruined because both of them sounded like they were slightly fretting out all night every time he dug in. Even the notes that DIDN'T sound like they were fretting out sounded MUCH brighter than they normally do. Not sure what was going on tonight but everyone heard it.

The only thing I can figure is that the action on both was set super low with a very straight neck. We got a very cold and dry night tonight, and I think the slight bit of relief straightened out and was causing just the tiniest bit of fretting out. Bottom line...I cut it too close and should have left a bit of room for a bit of variance here and there. Total rookie mistake and I feel pretty terrible about it. It's the first time I gave someone a guitar (never mind TWO guitars) that didn't get it done tonight.

Anyhow, you could still hear the difference between the two.

So lesson learned. When the guitars were in my shop, at a comfortable 70 degrees and 35% humidity, they played absolutely perfectly with an action that was to die for. I should have known better. I let my ego get in the way of giving my customer a tool that made him sound like a million bucks. Instead, I made us both look bad.

This was a rough lesson to learn, all the harder because it affected a customer. 'Twill not happen again.



John Coloccia wrote:
Well, it turns out that one guitar wasn't really fretting out that badly at all....it was on the edge when he really dug in, but a very minor tweak took care of that. The OTHER one, with the Schaller roller bridge, was nightmarish....it turns out at the high E string had popped out of the slot in the roller. I had the low E pop out once but only when I was playing aggressive finger style. Once that was back in the slot, everything was fine again. He had it pop out again when he was playing with it at his house, so I took it back to rip it out and replace it with a nice, Gotoh hardtail bridge. It's really a shame because the Schaller is so beautifully made but is clearly not what I would consider road worthy.


VirgilGuitar wrote:
Ever get the strange feeling that someone posted a comment on the wrong thread, or is it just me? :o


No, but sometimes I get the strange feeling that people don't follow threads very well. pfft

:D


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 2:57 pm 
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wow7-eyes

My mind is a terrible thing - I forgot all about tangents!

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:13 pm 
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VirgilGuitar wrote:
Ever get the strange feeling that someone posted a comment on the wrong thread, or is it just me? :o



...and it was green with all these compelling black flecks running through it. It made me want to tear off all my clothes and DIVE in...

...uh...

:oops:

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:21 pm 
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Current temperature in Copenhagen, Danmark: 34°F

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:09 am 
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And the beat goes on ! laughing6-hehe

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