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VirgilGuitar
PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:42 pm 
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What fun would lutherie be without risks?

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Jim_H
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:22 am 
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Well, lopping off a finger tip is one thing, but having your prized carved top crushed in a vacuum bag.. ugh.. no way man! :p

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VirgilGuitar
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:41 am 
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Awww, c'mon - that would make for a great "News at 11" clip!

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sksmith66
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:42 pm 
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can you explain what you are doing with the rosewood in the vacuum? are you covering the soundholes with a rosewood veneer? thanks.

I have been following this build eagerly as it is pretty similar to the build I am currently doing.

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Tony_in_NYC
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 1:32 pm 
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What are you gluing in that pic with the rosewood piece over your soundholes?

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sksmith66
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 1:54 pm 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
The top to the body blank. White glue. Vacuum rocks for itregular surface glue ups. Also water-based glue dries much faster under vacuum.

Filippo


ahhh... this is where you lost me. I thought you were gluing the rosewood. I didn't realize what you were actually gluing up in that pic. now it all makes sense. glue the top to the body and reinforce the soundholes with a little rosewood.

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VirgilGuitar
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 8:30 pm 
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Very nice Filippo!

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SteveCourtright
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:05 pm 
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Looking good, Mr. Morelli!!

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John Coloccia
PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:01 pm 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
Okay for you photo junkies ...

Headplate thicknesses with Saf-t-Planer and cut on bandsaw to get in the zip code.

Image

Difficult to see in this photo, but the neck is cut to a rough profile. This guitar gets a backstrap, which requires getting final thickness of the neck behind the first fret dialed in. This is because the backstrap is veneer and won't take much sanding to go through.

Image

Faux bound fingerboard on this one. This is a jig I built to cut the correct edge angle on a fretboard. The fretboard is a pretty rare Curly Katalox, from Mexico. This photo shows the correct color, a dark purple.

Image

The faux binding is 0.050" cutoffs from the fretboard blank prior to slotting, which are then glued back on with CA. Makes for a clean edge. Also allows for fretting after finish.

Image

Image

Finally a bit of West Systems epoxy glues up the fretboard. I use a technique I learned from Todd to locate the fretboard. I am NOT a fan of pins in the fret slot holes. Instead I take some scrap Mahogany blocks and CA them to the neck, butting the blocks to the fretboard. The fretboard can then be removed then wedged back into place. Under glue up it will not move. When finished, simple tap the blocks with a chisel and they pop off. The remaining neck area where the glue up was done gets routed off anyway.

Image

Hope this is helpful. If anyone has questions or observations, please feel free to chime in.

Filippo



I usually do the pins through the fret slots, but I read this a couple of nights ago and decided to try it today. Great technique. I think I'll glue all my fingerboard on like this from now on.
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Matthew Bryan
PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:22 am 
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Wonderful build!!! I was wondering if you can share some tips on the top veneering. I understand the concept and want to do this on my future builds. My questions are around the middle seam. Did you do anything special to ensrue a tight seam? Besids getting very true edges and tape them up well? Did you have to account for extra slack because the edges are going to be going over the carve? Why the green tape vs the traditional brown veneer tape? I am just trying to head off any issues at the pass so to speak. Any detail on your jointing and glue up would be appreciated.

Thanks for any info.
Matthew
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EWC&Son
PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 8:43 pm 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
I am generally happy to share any information that I have. . . . . As such I feel improper sharing that knowledge. . . . If there is anything else I can help with or share, please don't hesitate to ask!
Filippo

verhoevenc wrote:
I don't feel comfortable teaching it . . . . I'd contact Myka if I were you. If he's willing to share, but not got the time to teach, let me know and I'm sure we can work something out for the teaching side.
Chris


idunno
Has Myka got some sort of patent that prevents users of the forum from giving tips on how to do veneering? Seems like other tips are pretty freely shared around here.

BTW, not trying to pick an arguement (seems like we already have enough of that going on in other threads). Just trying to understand why there's so much reluctance to discuss the few specific questions asked by Matthew.
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John Coloccia
PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 8:53 pm 
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FWIW, Cumpiano told me that I'm free to share everything and anything that he's taught me....which isn't much because the man is always busy. LOL. I did ask him, though, and he sat me down and gave me a nice lecture why he is so open. I guess it's just a matter of respect so I can understand the reluctance.

Somehow I think Myka's going to be fine with it, but he's easy enough to get in touch with if there's any doubt.
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Matthew Bryan
PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 11:21 am 
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No problem. I asked Chris the same question when he posted a build on another forum. He told me the same thing. I did not know he taught it to you. I thought u just figured it out on your own or was a common. Veneering practice that I have not learned yet. I did contact David at Chris's direction but got no reply. I will try again. I am just trying to avoid stupid or exPensive mistakes. Thanks for your sharing of your build. I have learned a lot from it already.

Matthew
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Mike Dotson
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:23 pm 
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Very cool treatment on the heel!
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EWC&Son
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:01 pm 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
It's a matter of respect. David Myka developed it. I did not. It is not common knowledge. I defer to David insofar as whether he wishes to share it. You are welcome to contact him.

Everett, if you go back and read my response - it was a) gracious, b) offered to help with anything else I could, c) explained why I felt it improper to share this specific answer and d) told you who you could contact to get more information. Given the threads I have posted on this forum over the years and information I have provided, I'm hardly a reluctant sharer of information. But ... I am a respectful first.

Filippo

Understood, Filippo. Like I said, not trying to open any can of worms. I just thought some of his questions looked like "routine" veneering questions and not really related to any one guy's particular techniques. I agree, your responses all generally meet the standards you laid out A-D and you are most certainly helpful sharer. Thanks for doing so.

Everett
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MetalOne72
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 10:33 pm 
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Hey Filippo, Awesome thread. I was curious about the Myka Style jig and this thread cleared up most of my questions. However I do have a question, what is the purpose of the aluminum on the two top rails? Wouldn't it make sense to have them on the inside for the router bit bearing to ride against?

Scott
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MetalOne72
PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 11:16 am 
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Makes sense! Great Jig and nice looking to boot!
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WudWerkr
PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 12:06 pm 
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Love the look of that Guitar [:Y:] You are a great jig builder as well , i am always impressed at the jigs you have ! I am at the point of deciding on binding for the drop top I added . Open to suggestions lol

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WudWerkr
PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 2:41 pm 
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what I am kicking around is running a router bit into the side that takes out mostly mahogany and a small piece of the drop top and putting in a narrow " 1/8" black binding strip that just coveres the glue joint . so you have a edge visual of the mahagony 1/8" of black and then the roundover burl .

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The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
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Stuart Gort
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 8:37 pm 
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Aaaaahhh....the finish. I KNEW that was going to pop that burl.

Now.....let's make one for each other. :)

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nyazzip
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 11:45 pm 
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regarding magnets, depending on their power you could probably get away with using half as many, most times- just mate each magnet up with a metal slug/screw/piece of rod, etcetera, instead of another magnet. same goes for the "removal tool", you'd just need a metal slug inlaid into the cover...i did a pair of speakers a couple months ago and i used big flathead screws as the "magnet receiving points", and inlaid the magnets themselves into the grill frames(Dynaco a25s, for you vintage audio buffs).
and of course another thing to plan around, of course, is making sure the magnet fields aren't too close to the strings or pickups...with some rare earth magnets that could translate to an inch or more distance
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VirgilGuitar
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 12:01 pm 
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Spectacular - love the heel too! [clap]

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Mike Baker
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 1:43 pm 
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Great looking guitar, Fillipo! Nice work.
A couple of questions, if i may?
How long and how deep is your neck tenon/pocket? How deep are the humbucker routs?

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Mike Baker
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 3:03 pm 
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Thanks for the info, Chris and Filippo.

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peters instruments
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:58 pm 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
Binding the average 00 size classical, dread, et cetera is far easier than doing horns, or sharp joints, especially when it comes to bending the wood (without breaking it) or getting the purfling miters just right. It's not beginner binding for sure.
Filippo


Sure it is! I guess I dont think its all that tough, my first experience was binding a solid body with some very tight curves in curly maple. It was a bear I guess, but it was a very valuable experience though and as far as binding guitars goes im not really scared off by much now.

But thats besides the point. Excellent work Filippo! I always enjoy watching your build threads. between you and chris I learn something new every time. Thanks for the contribution!

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