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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:40 pm 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:03 am
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First name: John
City: Buffalo
State: NY
Country: USA
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Okay, so I used the neck angle calculator based upon my dimensions. My questions was where the neck "joins with body," where should I start the angle? Part of the fretboard extends onto the body, so therefore the angle shouldn't start until the fretboard ends, yes?

This is my first build, and it has a through neck, and I'm just about to that point where I need to cut for that angle and figured I ask before cutting. Here's a beautiful paint drawing to better illustrate, as well as a couple build photos. I'll eventually post all the pictures, I'm just trying to make some headway while I have a little bit of time to work on it! :D

Image

Image

Image
This is themed like an eclipse, with each fret marker the moon overtakes the sun until the 12th fret, then reverse, made with black and gold MOP.

Thanks!
John


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:08 pm 
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Cocobolo
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I have never made a neck through, so I'm definitely not an expert on them, but I didn't think that neck through's generally had a neck angle. But if I was going to do it, I would make sure that my neck blank was thicker than the body. Then, glue the wings to the neck at the appropriate angle as measured from where they attach (for you looks like around the 20th fret). Once it is all glued up, you will have the neck sticking above the top of the guitar at the appropriate angle which can then be planned off from the end of the fretboard to the base of the body. This would leave the fretboard coming up off the body at the same angle. I am sure there are a few different ways to do it though.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 10:53 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

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Yeah, that's what I figured. I had planned on cutting it with the bandsaw fairly close, then sand it the rest of the way once is been glued together


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:01 pm 
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Cocobolo
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First name: Alex
Last Name: Takacs
State: Illinois
Country: United States
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Neck throughs typically arent angled because then you would have end grain on the face of the body. If this decription is a little unclear, let me know and I'll whip something up on Microsoft Paint to demostrate. BUt, to correctly answer the question you asked, it really doesnt matter. What matters is that the strings will be at an appropriate height and that they wont be to close to the body. Heres a link that shows a little bit about how the neck joint on a les paul copy can be done. I think it has some info on the angle (I didt read too thoroughly). -Alex


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:22 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Paper, pencil and a straightedge.
Works itself out everytime!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:55 am 
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Yeah, it looks like you have the right idea there. Personally I wouldn't worry too much about the end grain thing if your angle is less than three degrees, but It might be simpler to raise the fretboard to make up the difference anyways. So, if the bridge is 1/2 an inch high, and the fretboard is 1/4 inch thick, cut a quarter inch off the top of the neck where the fretboard ends, so that the top of the fretboard is raised a half inch above the body.
Nice inlays!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 10:19 am 
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Koa
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muskr@ wrote:
Yeah, it looks like you have the right idea there. Personally I wouldn't worry too much about the end grain thing if your angle is less than three degrees, but It might be simpler to raise the fretboard to make up the difference anyways. So, if the bridge is 1/2 an inch high, and the fretboard is 1/4 inch thick, cut a quarter inch off the top of the neck where the fretboard ends, so that the top of the fretboard is raised a half inch above the body.
Nice inlays!

If I am following correctly, this works 0 degree neck angle.

One the exposed endgrain, from the look of the wood in the pics I doubt it would be offensive. On the challenge electric I just did, the neck was 3 rift maple boards, so the headstock has a 10 degree angle and did not look weird. But that is maple only I was looking at.

In looking at the picture you have drawn, it looks like your are not setting the neck at an angle, but essentially insetting or lowering the bridge.
My understanding on electrics was that the neck angle pivots where the neck body joint begins, I am not sure this would change on a neck through, but I think I will be on Allen's program today and get out the paper and rulers.

WindyCityBluesBox wrote:
Neck throughs typically arent angled because then you would have end grain on the face of the body. If this decription is a little unclear, let me know and I'll whip something up on Microsoft Paint to demostrate. BUt, to correctly answer the question you asked, it really doesnt matter. What matters is that the strings will be at an appropriate height and that they wont be to close to the body. Heres a link that shows a little bit about how the neck joint on a les paul copy can be done. I think it has some info on the angle (I didt read too thoroughly). -Alex


Alex, I don't think the link came through, I am curious.
My next will likely be a neck through, I have not found too much info on this yet, so some links, picture and drawings are all helpful. I was planning on using the Myka jig to create the angles. viewtopic.php?t=35802&p=470543#p470543

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 12:31 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:03 am
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First name: John
City: Buffalo
State: NY
Country: USA
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Yeah, the angle is only going to be 1.5 degrees, so the amount of endgrain viewable at the end of the neck wouldn't be significant. Also, I planned on binding the neck and headstock once the fretboard has been put on so I can make one router pass, so it will be hidden either way. And if that wasn't enough, the humbucker pickup will be right at the edge of the neck, so it blocks the view even more!

Thanks guys for all the input, I just wanted to make sure everything was in order. I routed the truss rod slot last night, so things are coming along nicely!


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