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Looking for usefull information on how to remove tuner buttons from Waverlys brought up nada. So I though I give Chris Paulick excellent methods a try. But I found out the hard way that open back Waverly tuners
a) can take a bend in obscure places and
b) that the beans are special-heat-welded-whatever on the shaft and won't move a bit when upward pressure is applied.
So I used a very down-to-earth method which features a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel.

For not having my hand near the spinning cut-off wheel, I put the tuner in a block of plywood.

To protect stuff from metal dust, most of it is taped of.

The dremel def. is one of the most used tools in my shop.

There is no need to cut all the way through the bean as...

... it will open up with just a little bit of pressure applied with a screwdriver or whatever you use.

I was surprised to find a round shaft and no signs of glue at all.


Although I ruined 2 brand-new Waverly tuners, I am a happy camper now. My next will feature open back Waverly tuners with custom Mad Rose beans.

Hope you enjoy.

Did you use the hammer or the vise hookup? I don't know about Waverly. Did you also try heating the button to see if that had any effect?
It would be nice to know what else you tried just for the info.
But the cutoff wheel seems to work pretty good but no saving the buttons.

Right - just heat the shaft!

Great photos Cristoph,

I just did this the other day, I encountered my first really stuck set of buttons and heating and different pulling angles did nothing to help. If I really think about it, this is probably the safest way to remove them (in terms of the force on the tuner). some buttons just slide right off when you pull on them but most take a little tug. Thanks for posting this!

_________________
Burton
http://www.legeytinstruments.com
Brookline, MA.

Thanks for your feedback and sorry for my late reply.

Actually I tried both methods: First I used the hammer and tried to pull up the bean. In result the collet of the shaft bended upwards. Then I built a vise hookup to support the collet while pulling the bean upwards. This ruined the complete mechanic inside the tuner. I didn't heat the shaft, but as I found no glue residue inside I don't think heating would help.

Looking closely at the shaft and the inside of the bean, you can see vertical notches all the way around. These are likely to be the reason for the tight fit and missing willingness to come apart.

Anyway: As I have no use for the original beans, the Dremel method is perfect for me: It works and doesn't put any stress on the mechanics.
Here is one of the MadRose Waverlys I am using on my current build.

thanks for the tips - I just bought a Gibby Nighthawk (too good a deal to pass up and sone of the best sounding electrics Ive ever heard)
however its the 1st gitter Ive ever had with plastic tipped klusons - Needless to say they are on ther way out and to be replaced with something more organic...
Cheers
Cwood

The original buttons might be press fit. They might be held with loctite. I've swapped button-shaft assemblies on plenty of Sloans (Waverlies). A little heat, and steady pressure on the right axis--no problem.

Filippo,

Thanks for the tip. I will give it a try next time.