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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 8:14 am 
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1) I have a guy that wants me to build him a guitar with all satin finish. Would a water base satin like Hydrocote Polyurethane work, or would you do a gloss and level it but not buff it out?

2) For regular gloss finish, are there a couple of good people/shops you could recommend. I'm thinking about sending this step out.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 8:16 am 
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1. don't know,
2. absolutely!
Tony Ferguson and Addam Stark.
Email me for info

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 8:34 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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I would finish it in what ever you prefered guitar finish is and hand rub it out to a Satin finish using 0000 steel wool and past wax.


Yes I watched the whole Robbie O'brien finishing DVD last night Really though It is the best satin finish process and works with any media.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 8:42 am 
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[QUOTE=MichaelP] Yes I watched the whole Robbie O'brien finishing DVD
last night Really though It is the best satin finish process and works with any
media. [/QUOTE]

Where do you find Robbie O'Brien's videos? Does he have a webstore?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 8:43 am 
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Cocobolo
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The problem with obtaining a satin finish by not buffing out completely is that over time, points that get touched a lot during playing will buff themselves to a gloss. If you want a finish that stays satin, it would be best to use a finish with the appropriate additives included in the formula.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 8:58 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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[QUOTE=laurent] [QUOTE=MichaelP] Yes I watched the whole Robbie O'brien finishing DVD
last night Really though It is the best satin finish process and works with any
media. [/QUOTE]

Where do you find Robbie O'Brien's videos? Does he have a webstore?[/QUOTE]

www.apprenticepublishing.com


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 9:12 am 
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[QUOTE=Pete Licis] The problem with obtaining a satin finish by not buffing out completely is that over time, points that get touched a lot during playing will buff themselves to a gloss. If you want a finish that stays satin, it would be best to use a finish with the appropriate additives included in the formula.[/QUOTE] That's what I was thinking. I owned a Martin D15 and saw that thing get shinny spots on it were I inadvertently polished it while playing it. Would an appropriate satin finish stay satin? Was that D15 satin be finish design, or lack of polish?

What satin finish product might you guys recommend?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 9:30 am 
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Koa
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Steve,
I think your best bet is to use a gloss finish up until the last couple of coats, then switch to satin. I heard that satin finishes are softer because of the elements that are added to refract the light. A gloss finish will be harder, then use satin at the end of the process and you will be good to go. Hope that helps.
Tracy


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 9:31 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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The problem with pigment is that you have to be very consistant with you stir to achive equal distribution of the particals. So as usal each has its trade off


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 10:01 am 
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Only one response on the second question.


2) For regular gloss finish, are there a couple of good people/shops you could recommend. I'm thinking about sending this step out.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 10:09 am 
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That's because those 2 people are the best. I know that Addam used to work for SCGC and was the finishing manager. He is the one who put the finish on my Santa Cruz. Doesn't get much better than that!
Tracy


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 1:03 pm 
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Koa
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Even lacquer formulated to give a satin finish will polish over time. My 25 year old beater was finishd in satin lacquer & it has a high gloss area where my right arm rests on the top & side.
I spoke to Mike Doolin during his KTM-9 workshop at the last GAL convention & he told me KTM-9 will do the same thing over time.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 4:54 pm 
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Lance sent me contact info for Tony Ferguson and Addam Stark. Thank you Lance!

Do you guys have any recommendations for a good brand of satin finish?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 6:42 pm 
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I have Nitro Satin and Poly Satin. The nitro is what you see on an SCGC neck and the Poly is what I am spraying on the back and sides of the halfling basses. The poly satin is also what you would see on a Taylor with satin back and sides. Poly is hard and will not buff out as fast and if it get buffed out you can use 2400 micro mesh to take the buff off. Both are nice but the poly has a fast turn around time so builders like that!

     Also I have not worked for SCGC for 2 years now, all I do now is finish for guitar builders and a lot of refinishing. I loved working at SCGC but after 10 year of spraying, sanding and buff 15 to 20 guitars a week, it's nice to do only 15 to 30 a month.

Feel free to use Private Messenger to contact me.

Addam Stark38729.1141435185


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 3:30 am 
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Thanks Addam. I sent you a PM. I look forward to talking to you.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 3:55 am 
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I French polish all of mine and then just cut back with 0000 wire wool to the desired satin finish, If areas then get buffed shinier through use, I treat that as the patina of age and think it makes the guitar look better anyway. They are musical instuments designed and built to be played and, if they carry evidence of their use (not dings and scratches from misuse), at least it shows they are played.

What looks better than an old fingermarked BRW fingerboard?

Colin

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 4:29 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Here, here!!!! I had a client come back to me with a guitar that was delivered a year earler wanting me to refinish it because the FP finish wa not holding up to scratches from his pic. When he ordered the guitar his specs were FP top, no pick guard. He had a hard time understanding why it was not coverd in the warrenty


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