Official Luthiers Forum!

I know NOTHING about this tool, so that said,

Is this the bit I would need to drill a 5/8" counterbore? Scroll down to see part #70137

Spotface bit

And also the 1/4'' Pilot # 70154.

So If I have this clear in my foggy head, you drill a 1/4" pilot hole, from the out side in, through the neck block, then reach in the sound hole and attach the spotfacer to the tip of the pilot bit, and proceed to drill while pulling the bit outward, to a predetermined depth?
I assume that I may have to completely remove the pilot bit to attach the spotfacer and then poke it through from the inside and reattach it to my drill.

Yes? no?

Thanks

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

First, you want 3/4", not 5/8", I believe...

The shaft attaches to your drill. Run the shaft through the 1/4" hole, and insert the spotfacer from there. It's got a cool little self-locking notch in it, so you just slip it on, and go for it. Run the drill and pull back on it, releasing every few seconds to clear the chips and shavings, as they aren't self clearing.

Very self explanatory once you have it. You need to buy the shaft with it! 1/4" rod won't do <bg>

Lance,

Just what Mario said...(that guy's chock full of good advice.. )...if I'd been thinking far enough ahead I'd have gotten the 3/4" cutter, but the 5/8" has served well...the shaft is 3/8" with my setup which gives some room to play with neck alignment...and I just sent you a PM that it's going in the afternoon mail today!

Larry

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

I use a 5/8" one myself with a 5/16" pilot shaft because that is the size I drill my head blocks. MSC has a range of bit sizes and shaft sizes, though are more expensive than your link.

MSC part numbers 09937327 and 00428169.

I do the same as Bob. It works.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

I realize this tool is for those who cut their mortises after the body is assembled. I have always machined my neck blocks prior to gluing them in. So what is the advantage to doing it this way. It just seems a bit awkward to my rational pea sized brain.

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Tim,
The rationale is that you drill the holes after the neck is fitted to the guitar body. That way if the block slipped or you need to adjust the neck you do not have to fit to the predrilled holes.

Keep in mind that the outer cutting edges of the cutter is (gently) radiused.