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I apologize if this has been covered before, as I'm sure it probably has, but I'm wondering how you can accurately cut the fretboard blank down to correct size/taper? I'm assuming somehow on a table saw, but I'm having a hard time envisioning a jig for this that would be accurate. On my first build, I just cut it close on the scroll saw before it was glued on, then sander down with the neck, after it was glued on. This worked, but on my new build I plan to put binding on the fret board, so i don't think this method will work...

I built a jig for that once. It's basically a bandsaw sled, though a table saw sled would be just as good. It has clamps built into the sled to hold the fretboard down.

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David Morris

I still freehand cut slightly wide on my band saw and plane to the correct size. It takes me a bit more time but I do not need to think about a jig or tear out. Then I glue on the binding. Actually I did this just this morning.

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

This is the tablesaw jig I use. The idea wasn't mine (Tony Karol?) but works well.
You basically adjust the saw fence to skim the jig, then adjust the jig fence to the max. width of the fingerboard.
The upper tab is set to {nut width + 1/2(max width - nut width)} and the lower tab is set to nut width.
Place the nut end of the blank (slots UP) against upper tab for fist cut.
Place the nut end of the blank (slots DOWN) to lower tab for second cut.

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Dave
Milton, ON

I cut it close with a bandsaw, glue it to the neck, and then plane/sand to match the neck edges.
I plan to make a template to use on my router table.
I may make two: one under-sized (without binding) and one full-size to include the (wood) binding.
I need to figure out some way to register the templates to the fretboard, probably some small nails or pins.
Dan

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Dan, this may give you some ideas.
viewtopic.php?f=10123&t=38859
I like a single template to drill both the neck & underside of fretboard for locating pin positions (either side of c'line).
One reason I think a precise tapering jig is important, once the slots & nut end have been cut, is that if the taper is not done exact, they could end up not being precisely right angles to the neck axis, FWIW.
(Another is if you have then done fretboard inlays and screw up the taper, the inlays can be off center.)

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Dave
Milton, ON

I built 2 sleds for the tablesaw,
labeled which end goes where,
and which is the first cut.
Works well for me.

I fashioned a neck template with the correct taper using a square piece of MDF scrap to make sure the template is perfectly straight on both sides, then double check to make sure the taper is right, route the neck, glue the fretboard on and route it flush with the neck.

Even if you do rough cut your fretboard on a table or bandsaw, I still reccomend using a piece of square stock to route it flush.

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http://www.tinyhouseandland.com

Im planning on making a template out of MDF that is the profile of the board. Then I can take the rough cut board and use the router to cut the taper. I can use a flush cut bit if its unbound and if I want to bind it I can use my binding channel bit to cut the board the correct taper undersized the amount of the binding.

+1 for flush routing. I mark the center line on a squared piece of ply, MDF, etc. or whatever I have laying around. Then mark the edges according to the nut/heel width, all the while registering off of my centerline. Then I rough cut it, double stick tape it to a straight piece of MDF and flush route to lines.

I then double stick tape it to the fretboard (which also has its centerline marked on the face and edges ), and then flush route that.

A word of caution... Sand any rough edges after rough cutting the board. If your router catches one of these, it will tear out. I use a sanding spindle to get as close to the line as I can before flush trimming on any really dense woods. Especially exotics. I made an entire guitar from Zebrawood once. Anyone that has worked with that stuff knows you look at it the wrong way and it tears out to all hell. But it looks awesome.

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"I'm not going to say that perfection has never been achieved. However, if it has, it probably went unnoticed due to it's lack of character."

I usually just mark it and plane it by hand. I don't necessarily make lots of the same size/shape board and binding schemes will vary from project to project, so making a template gets old fast.

Besides, taking a sharp plane to a fingerboard edge is wonderfully satisfying. Tiny curls, the 'snick' of steel on wood, and pretty much no risk of router bit/collet/bearing slippage. I sometimes improvise a sled (i.e. backer board with an offset and some double-stick tape) and roughly bandsaw things into the right shape, but often as not freehand bandsaw it and finish with the plane.

If I had a table saw, I'd definitely make the sled. But I don't have the space, sadly.

A jointer makes a very quick and easy taper. I have made tapered legs countless times with a jointer but its better seen than explained. See video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ&sns=em

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Doug

Don't let fear or common sense stop you from trying to build something

Clever idea to use a biding channel bit - I'll give that a try.
Dan

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