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After about 10 sessions of FP, I let the guitar sit for 3 days before I did a light leveling of the finish with 1800-2400-3200 Micromesh and walnut oil. Today I've done 4 more sessions; you can see the results below.

I tried something new today --- after seeing Michael Thames's Youtube videos on FP, I decided to try his method of using a beveled Artgum eraser wrapped in 3 layers of cheesecloth, to apply the shellac. It applied the shellac really smoothly on the top and back (circular motions first, followed by lengthwise strokes), and was more effective than the traditional muñeca in laying on the shellac evenly on the end of the peghead veneer at the nut end. Occasionally, I did use the muñeca on the top and back, when I needed to press harder to smooth out any problem areas. On the sides, I used the muñeca to apply the FP (circular motions), and then used the eraser w/cheesecloth to do the lengthwise smoothing strokes. (4 photos)

I've got a question now....How do you know when to stop?

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Kathy Matsushita
San Jose, CA USA
http://theamateurluthier.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kathy.matsushita

I know nothing about FP but I do know that guitar is BEAUTIFUL!!!

Again I know nothing but since you are way ahead of the game, I would stop.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Interesting method, Kathy!

I've heard it said the French polish process doesn't end but rather that it's abandoned.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

You can NEVER stop. You can take an extended break.

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http://www.CostaGuitars.com
PMoMC

When it's flat enough and shiny enough for you, and looks like it will stay that way. With the epoxy fill, it shouldn't sink back, so if you're not there, you're close.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

Looks wonderful. Hard to tell too much based on the photos, but, from what I can see, I'd probably stop and be very proud of that finish. Nice work!

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Aaron Craig

That is so beautiful Kathy, it inspires me to do a French Polish. Thanks for the explanation!

Thanks, Joe, Aaron, and Raymond! I am still kind of surprised I've been able to do this! I am loving the process!

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Kathy Matsushita
San Jose, CA USA
http://theamateurluthier.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kathy.matsushita

Funny, Pat & Tony!

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Kathy Matsushita
San Jose, CA USA
http://theamateurluthier.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kathy.matsushita

Thanks, Trevor!

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Kathy Matsushita
San Jose, CA USA
http://theamateurluthier.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kathy.matsushita

Robbie O'Brien told me that when your arms fall off you will know. The guitar looks very nice.

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

i think you are done. Now all that's left is to cut back with 0000 wirewool, get rid of that horrible gloss and feed it with a little wax . Much nicer finish.

That looks great!

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Kyle

Looks beautiful Kathy. Is that the one that had the sunken bit before? If so, you did an amazing job finishing it off.

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Martin Taylor
http://martintaylorguitars.com.au

Did you spirit-off? I know Michael's technique uses fair amount of oil. When I've done this in the past I ended up with, what I would call, an "unctious" finish. What I found was, it would look fantatstic, and then after resting for a day or so the oil would rise to surface. Needless to say, these guitars needed quite a bit of "de-greasing".

Regarding when to stop, if you level sanded the surface, and didn't sand through to bare wood, I'd say your OK to stop.

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Matt Jacobs

"Don't tase me bro"

First of all, thanks to you all for your very nice comments!

John: That's funny...actually, my arm hasn't suffered at all...no soreness or anything like that. (On the other hand --- pun unintended --- I've been working with an injured left rotator cuff --- luckily, I'm not left-handed!)

Martin: Yes, it's the same guitar that had the sunken "crater" about a week ago....



Matt: I didn't follow Michael Thames's method all the way --- I'm just using the eraser w/cheesecloth, in addition to the muñeca. I kind of cringed when I saw him just smear those drizzles of oil all over the top! I'm just doing it the same as when I use the traditional muñeca, just a tiny drop of oil when needed. And I am spiriting off after each session.

TO ALL: I'm not sure exactly what I'll be doing next --- probably a few more sessions, followed by that "glazing" thing they all talk about.... How long do you let it sit after it's all done, before you glue the bridge on? A week?

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Kathy Matsushita
San Jose, CA USA
http://theamateurluthier.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kathy.matsushita

That looks really good, Kathy!

Thanks, James!!!!

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Kathy Matsushita
San Jose, CA USA
http://theamateurluthier.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kathy.matsushita

Howdy Kathy,
Nice work as usual! Looks like you are doing kind of a variant of the method that Robbie teaches. Did you mic the top thickness before you started? If so you can mic again to see how much build you have. If you are getting the level of gloss you want then you are done as far as appearance. The only issue then is finish thickness. FP is thinner that lacquer in general and with lacquer I like to have about 5-thou thickness. With FP or with Tru-Oil on mandolins I shoot for a build of about 3-4-thou. Folks with a FP instrument usually understand the need to be a bit more careful anyway, so less danger of a spilled beer or folks throwing bottles at them in a gig.

Alan D.

LOL. No one has ever successfully answered that question.

That really turned out great, especially for your first time!

I prefer to let new FP cure for at least 30 days, if time permits. OTOH, if you do get some sink back after the bridge is attached, it's not the end of the world to knock the finish back a bit and reglaze at a later date. DO NOT put it in the sun to help it cure! (guess how I know this... )

It may be helpful to practice glazing before you apply your final bodying. It took me a couple tries to get reasonably competent in the technique. Remember, FP can always be polished out exactly like lacquer, though it takes longer and doesn't give you the same bragging rights.

Hey, Alan!!! Thanks. As for my "method," I kind of took ideas from all over the place -- Ron Fernandez's video, Robbie's online classical course, YouTube videos (Michael Thames, Richard Howell, Brian Forbes, some guy named Rick on "buildaguitar", Steve Dickie, WeepingZeeGuitars), Orville Milburn's tutorial. There were so many methods, at first it confused me; I just ended up trying to figure out what the most common practices were, and then just trying some of them. (At some point, you have to just stop reading/watching, and just DO it yourself!)

And, no, I didn't think to measure the top thickness before I started...!

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Kathy Matsushita
San Jose, CA USA
http://theamateurluthier.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kathy.matsushita

Thanks, Greg!

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Kathy Matsushita
San Jose, CA USA
http://theamateurluthier.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kathy.matsushita

THAT, Kathy, is a stunning display of excellence. I always enjoy seeing your work!

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Bill Hodge


One does not simply, own enough guitars!

Looks very nice Kathy. Did you add any gums/resins like sandarac, mastic, copal, etc?

Gordon Guttmann

Thanks, Bill! I appreciate the kind comment!




Gordon: I'm afraid I really don't know anything about those things yet!!! What are they for?

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Kathy Matsushita
San Jose, CA USA
http://theamateurluthier.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kathy.matsushita