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flounder
PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 2:40 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2012 2:35 am
Posts: 90
First name: Lee
Last Name: Passmoor
City: Newport Pagnell
State: Bucks
Zip/Postal Code: MK16 8JG
Country: United Kingdom
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Colin North wrote:
Undersized Frisket film, 1 thou, matt, extra tack was recommended in a thread here on OLF.
I tried it on my last finish, and after a few coats the thickness just disappeared as I sanded/levelled/buffed, but the matt of the film could still be seen making removal a breeze.
I'm a convert. bliss


Hi Colin,
Where do you get your extra tack film from in the UK?
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Ken C
PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 10:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2008 11:44 am
Posts: 1005
Location: SE Michigan
First name: Kenneth
Last Name: Casper
City: Northville
State: MI
Country: U.S.A
Focus: Build
Hi Wes,

I actually put two layers of tape down on a cutting mat, lay the bridge on top and cut out the shape with an exacto knife. I'm not cutting any smaller. But I do occasionally have a little clean up to do with an exacto knife and chisel when done. I've been using this approach for the last several years with no issues.

After spraying finish, I simply remove the top layer of tape. Final film thickness prior to final leveling and buffing can also be done by throwing a caliper on the top layer of tape:
Attachment:
DSCN3980.jpg

This leaves a slight ridge at the seam, which can now easily be leveled and buffed without worry of contaminating the spruce underneath:
Attachment:
DSCN3983.jpg

All buffed out:
Attachment:
IMGP1202.jpg

A little scraping with a razor blade, some clean up, and ready for the bridge:
Attachment:
IMGP7888.jpg

Bridge is on and fits neatly in the masked area:
Attachment:
IMGP1315.jpg

As you have seen, lots of ways to go about it, but this approach for me is very simple and has worked well. The trickiest part is cutting the mask. I always cut the mask and locate it on the guitar, then I double check by placing the bridge on the mask to make sure I haven't stretched the tape. It's pretty easy to remove lacquer, a little hard to add if the mask has been cut too large.

weslewis wrote:
Ken are you masking slightly smaller than the bridge????


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weslewis
PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 10:56 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:40 am
Posts: 764
First name: wes
Last Name: Lewis
City: Garland
State: Tx.
Zip/Postal Code: 75044
Focus: Build
Actually on my last one I used frisquit

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weslewis
PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 11:00 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:40 am
Posts: 764
First name: wes
Last Name: Lewis
City: Garland
State: Tx.
Zip/Postal Code: 75044
Focus: Build
Oops I used the 001 and cut to the exact size then after finishing I lightly scored around the bridge and fit perfect, however I thought I might have gotten lucky so I thought I would see what others are doing your method seems pretty solid

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Colin North
PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 6:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:44 am
Posts: 5582
First name: colin
Last Name: north
Country: Scotland.
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
flounder wrote:
Colin North wrote:
Undersized Frisket film, 1 thou, matt, extra tack was recommended in a thread here on OLF.
I tried it on my last finish, and after a few coats the thickness just disappeared as I sanded/levelled/buffed, but the matt of the film could still be seen making removal a breeze.
I'm a convert. bliss


Hi Colin,
Where do you get your extra tack film from in the UK?

Got pretty much a lifetimes supply from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grafix-Extra-Tack-Frisket-Film-Roll-12-Inch-by-4-Yards-Matte-/111091406515?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item19dd9056b3
Only source I could find at the time.

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.
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